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It is Chanel’ s emblematic jewel, a symbol of the Roaring Twenties, the ultimate distinction worn around the neck. A piece of jewelry that is both airborne, cumbersome, and incredibly enhancing.“ What defines a jewelry sautoir is that not everyone can have one. Some of Cartier’ s iconic pieces from the 1920s and 30s were reserved only for the elite of the elite,” explains Michèle Heuzé, gemologist and jewelry historian. Whether made of gold, pearls, diamonds, platinum, or emeralds, sautoirs had their heyday between 1890 and 1920, bringing prosperity to many jewelry houses. But fashion is a perpetual cycle, and these long necklaces were already“ trendy” during the Renaissance, the Middle Ages, the Etruscan era, and even in Prehistoric times. The sautoir is“ a decorative element diverted from its original utility,” our expert sums up. And this is where historians and etymologists are divided:“ The word sautoir has two possible origins, both linked to the X shape, either the cross on coats of arms or the first tool that helped one mount a horse. The term sautoir was, in fact, used before the invention of the metal stirrup.” Through research conducted for the house of Chanel, Michèle Heuzé became convinced that the second explanation is the correct one, and that the horse is the embodied origin of the name of these oversized necklaces. Based on unpublished work, her thesis is as follows:“ Let’ s go back to the Middle Ages and the word sautoüers. Placed in front of the horse’ s neckline, these two strips of fabric allowed the rider to place a foot where they crossed. These objects quickly became richly adorned, reflecting the prestige of their owners, for whom the horse was a luxurious extension.”
“ Queen Elizabeth I tied knots with them”“ As for necklaces, their luxury grew during the Gothic era and reached its peak in the Renaissance, which Gabrielle Chanel drew inspiration from. Those worn by Queen Elizabeth I, who was fascinated by pearls, were so long she would tie knots with them.” A feature of that time was that the sautoir was often worn“ diagonally, like a mayor’ s sash, in a half-X shape, even though the term sautoir wasn’ t used to describe it yet.” When did the word sautoir first appear in fashion as a term for jewelry?“ During the Directory period, which is richly illustrated and referenced in fashion journals between 1797 and 1799.” The 19 th century marked a turning point, with the diagonal wearing style falling into oblivion, as confirmed by Eugène Fontenay. The writings of this renowned 19 th-century jeweler allowed Michèle Heuzé to understand how the logic of how the piece was worn faded, leaving behind not its direct link to horseback riding,“ but only its length, which naturally made it‘ jump’ on the body.” The rise of the sautoir in fashion owes much to Paul Poiret, a somewhat forgotten genius of haute couture. Sautoirs contributed to elongating lines and silhouettes. And Chanel, with unmatched daring, popularized them like no one else.“ The sautoir remains Chanel’ s identity. Through these jewels, she feminized her structured garments, bringing suppleness, freedom, even sensuality. One cannot truly understand a Chanel suit without the sautoirs she would layer endlessly.” According to Michèle Heuzé, fashion is undeniably a perpetual renewal.“ Sautoirs moved back up toward the neck at the end of the 20 th century, and jewelry houses paid close attention to these changes in length. Today, they’ re coming back down again, even the diagonal sautoir is returning. And while it may not come galloping back … the sautoir will return, that’ s for sure!”
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LONGINES: TIMELESSNESS IN TIMEKEEPING
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By Mégane Martins
Longines is the ol dest registered watchmaking brand. Founded in
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