ENGLISH TEXTS
accessory, with its distinctive shape and curves inspired by a saddle, fit perfectly into the cowboy-themed collection, with silk details reminiscent of jockey silks, and was accentuated with a stirrup-shaped“ D” clasp and a handle on each side. It was seen on the arms of Paris Hilton, Beyoncé, and Carrie Bradshaw in Sex and the City, to name just a few. Lost in the shuffle of competition over the years, the bag was brought back into the spotlight by Maria Grazia Chiuri, who took over as Dior’ s artistic director in 2017, during the Fall-Winter 2018-2019 season, giving it a fresh new energy. The success was immediate, leading to a swift sell-out. The Saddle bag has since become an iconic piece of the Dior wardrobe, embraced by both male and female celebrities and fashion lovers around the world.
Gucci Soft Bit While the bit holds a central role in horseback riding, it has also become a hallmark of style in the world of leather goods. The renowned Italian fashion house Gucci adopted it as a true signature as early as the 1970s, notably with its iconic Horsebit Loafer. Inspired by Guccio Gucci’ s passion for horses, the bit naturally found its place in the brand’ s collections. More recently, Gucci unveiled a new handbag model, the Soft Bit, instantly recognizable by its oversized half-bit buckle with magnetic closure, already earn- ing its status as an“ it-bag.”
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By Anastasia Lebarbier
MARCEL BOUSSAC: FROM HORSE RACING TO DIOR
Coming from a family in the textile business, Marcel Boussac built his fortune after World War I by transforming airplane canvas into blouses, shirts, and eventually pajamas. Encouraged by friends Gaston de Castelbajac and Edmond Blanc, the man who would become known as the“ cotton king” entered the horse racing world and acquired the Haras de Fresnay-le- Buffard in 1919. His orange silks and grey cap quickly became dominant on racetracks, carried by champions such as Corrida, Djebel, Pharis, and Esmeralda, who led the international scene from the 1920s through the 1950s. He holds the record for most wins in the Prix du Jockey Club with 12 victories between 1922 and 1978, and was named leading owner 19 times and leading breeder 17 times. After World War II, he co-founded the House of Dior with Christian Dior on October 8, 1946. Dior, the man be- hind the“ New Look,” experienced such instant success that it enabled Boussac to expand his empire to the Saint-Cloud racecourse, the Haras de Jardy, and other equestrian ventures. Françoise Giroud wrote:“ Unknown on February 12, Christian Dior was world-famous by February 13.” His secret?“ I drew women as flowers— with soft shoulders, full busts, waists as slender as vines, and skirts as wide as corollas.” A shrewd businessman, Marcel Boussac was also behind the first licensing deals under the Christian Dior name, including a perfume company founded in 1947. A legendary figure in French horse breeding, he is honored each year at Paris- Longchamp during the famed Qatar Prix de l’ Arc de Triomphe weekend, through the Prix Marcel Boussac race.
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By Serge Okey
TO BE FAR MORE THAN AN ACCES- SORY
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