D(Race) Code N°9 Juin 2025 | Page 135

ENGLISH TEXTS every event. Some dresses could be loaned to them, it was a form of advertising for the fashion house.”
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HERMÈS, THE ICON
By Serge Okey
“ When we think of the world of horses and fashion, Hermès is naturally the first house that comes to mind,” says fashion historian Laëtitia Hedde.“ From the very beginning, it has been tied to the equestrian universe. In 1837, Thierry Hermès opened a workshop for harnesses and saddles. Later, his son Charles-Emile took an interest in fashion and diversified the company’ s output. The brand’ s logo even features a duke and his carriage.” At the time, during the height of the Industrial Revolution, the horse retained a rather romantic image in contrast to the rise of motorization. The 1867 Universal Exhibition in Paris marked a real turning point for Hermès senior: his first-class medal drew in an already prestigious clientele. Two years after his death in 1880, Charles-Emile made a strategic move by relocating the company’ s headquarters to 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, an address that was gaining fashionable notoriety. It was there that Hermès began to diversify. First into leather goods, with those iconic bags spacious enough for a rider to stash a saddle, boots, riding helmet, or crop. Then, under the guidance of his son Emile-Maurice, came horse blankets and silk riding silks. Step by step, and from father to sons-in-law, came fashion, watchmaking, perfumery, jewelry, sports … The brand’ s most iconic item remains, of course, the Kelly bag, a small strapped handbag made famous by a photograph of Princess Grace Kelly that circled the globe in the 1950s. Hermès is also instantly recognizable by its signature orange color and its legendary silk scarves, which have earned it global renown. The horse has always remained a source of inspiration. One of its first perfumes was named“ Calèche.” Jean-Louis Dumas, CEO from 1978 to 2006, liked to say:“ Our first customer is the horse. The second, the rider.” From saddle pads to horse blankets, from grooming brushes to leather balms, the brand maintains a dedicated collection for equestrian gear and has made the Saut Hermès an international event. In spirit, Hermès continues to uphold its reverence for craftsmanship. The only difference is that the small workshop of 1837 has become a luxury giant, with galloping revenues now surpassing € 15 billion. Hermès also plans to expand its production capacity by opening its 27 th leather goods workshop in France in 2028, located in Colombelles near Caen, in the Calvados region.
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By Serge Okey
COCO CHANEL, RED SILKS IN THE 1964 PRIX DE DIANE
Coco Chanel also opened her second boutique( for hats) in Deauville, right across from the casino. The Normandy air inspired her to create the sailor-style shirt, tweed and jersey- lightweight garments suited to seaside living. She too frequented the racetrack, often seen on the arm of Boy Capel, a polo player and racing enthusiast. It’ s well known that she was a skilled rider and enjoyed the hunt. But what history has somewhat forgotten is that she also owned a racehorse: Romantica, a chestnut mare acquired thanks to the help of the indispensable François Mathet, a school friend of René de Chambrun, Mademoiselle’ s lawyer. In a memorable interview with Week-end magazine, Coco Chanel revealed that her sudden passion for racehorses stemmed from being“ tired of dogs.”“ Dogs are sweet, but you
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