ENGLISH TEXTS
social rank. Through these sleek, angular, swift steeds, aristocrats once again set themselves apart from the rest of society. According to a document from the French National Library, the term“ equestrian sport” first appeared in France on April 1, 1828, in an equestrian periodical, Journal des Haras, in a piece describing English customs. The arrival of this English word in French equestrian circles was no coincidence. Since the late 18 th century, the French aristocracy had been gripped by Anglomania, adopting English leisure activities and horse-riding styles during their free time: the English thoroughbred, English saddle, English posting trot, the riding coat( redingote), the steeplechase, and more.
Horse racing has always been deeply tied to the aristocracy- it served as a way to assert one’ s social rank. And what about fashion? Like most sports and business-related activities of the time, women had no access to racing itself. As depicted in the hit Netflix series Bridgerton, their wardrobes were often their only means of expression. According to the book Fashion at the Races: A Century of Elegance – 1850 / 1950, horse races were“ acceptable” events for women- as spectators. In the 19 th century, women’ s presence in public spaces was heavily codified. There were few activities deemed both respectable and socially acceptable for women. Horse racing became one of the rare occasions where a woman could appear in public without scandal-as long as she adhered to the expected dress and social codes. The book explains that races provided an“ acceptable” setting for all these reasons: they were linked to aristocracy and the upper bourgeoisie, seen as elegant social spaces, with strong male but also significant female presence. They were both recreational and status-driven events, where appearance mattered as much as the sport itself. They allowed women to be visible in public without it being tied to work or activism— activities that could have damaged their reputations at the time.
Outdoor fashion shows With the rise of photography and illustrated media, magazines like La Mode illustrée, L’ Illustration, or Les Modes began covering major social events— particularly the races at Longchamp and Chantilly. These publications focused less on the horses and more on the spectators’ outfits, described in great detail, turning the grandstands into real open-air fashion shows. With the growing popularity of photography in the late 19 th century, photographers like Paul Géniaux and the Séeberger brothers captured“ elegant women at the races.” Their imag- es, published in magazines and newspapers, became style references. These photos helped spread fashion trends seen at the races and played a major role in accelerating the influence of fashion. They also bridged the gap between haute couture, media representation, and social perception— spectators becoming both witnesses and judges of elegance. Fashion houses quickly seized upon the opportunity. Unlike private salons and indoor dinners, horse races were public events. The“ runway” of women parading in the grandstands became a perfect stage to showcase the latest designs and collections.
The quintessence of excellence“ Haute couture and horse racing each represent, in their own way, the quintessence of excellence- one through mastery of fabric, the other through physical achievement,” explains fashion historian Laëtitia Hedde.“ Most racetracks( Chantilly, Longchamp, Fontainebleau, Vincennes, Deauville, Auteuil …) were founded during the Second Empire. At that time, horse racing was a genuine social event, a form of entertainment reserved for the wealthy elite and bourgeoisie. The ruling classes attended to see and be seen in the latest creations from Parisian couture houses— especially Worth, Paquin, Lanvin, Chéruit, and others.”
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