ENGLISH VERSION of creating bespoke racing silks … although at a cost of £ 5,000!
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HATS OFF TO LAU- RETTE!
BY EMMANUEL RIVRON
From the Kentucky Derby to the Melbourne Cup, via the Japan Cup, Maison Laurette’ s hats never go unnoticed. A self-taught milliner based in Deauville, Laure Fessard has successfully cleared the hurdle of career change. Just days before the Prix de Diane Longines( Gr. 1), a true symbol of elegance, the spotlight naturally falls on this remarkable craft.
GALORAMA. How did you come to embrace the profession of milliner?
Laure Fessard. While I was still working in international relations, I was already creating small pieces on the side. I have always loved fashion and, as I wanted to start my own company, I founded Maison Laurette in 2018, in my small Paris apartment. The goal was to settle in Deauville and begin a new life, close to my horses, my other passion. I arrived in
Deauville in 2020 in a small premises before moving into a magnificent boutique that had been run by Jeanne Lanvin in the 1930s. There is an extraordinary spirit of fashion and couture there.
G. Why this attraction to hats?
L. F. Closely linked to the world of horses, the hat is an extension of one’ s personality, far more than just an accessory. The craftsmanship involved is highly technical, very much haute couture, I love that! I am self-taught, but I have read extensively and visited milliners and hatmakers, immersing myself in the craft, especially in England. In 2023, I obtained the title of artisan d’ art( master craftsperson). It is wonderful recognition from the profession and important for preserving the transmission of this savoirfaire, which is essential to maintain in France.
G. How is a hat made?
L. F. For a bespoke hat, you must adapt to the client’ s outfit, morphology, and silhouette, while also taking into account the event itself. And of course, understanding her personality is essential in order to create a piece that truly reflects her. Before making the hat, I visualise it extensively in space. The flat sketch guides me aesthetically. For more elaborate couture pieces, I build them around the face and the overall look. The technical aspect is extremely important: the hat must hold perfectly while remaining comfortable. Creativity and materials are endless. As long as the raw material is noble, anything can be used, straw, felt, leather, embroidery, fabrics …
G. What is the timeless hat shape for the Prix de Diane Longines?
L. F. For a hat that can be reused at the Prix de Diane, it needs that“ country-chic” spirit. One can imagine flowers on a straw boater hat, or small feathers. I use a great deal of Sisal straw, silk flowers, fabric flowers, leather flowers …
G. How long does it take to make a hat?
L. F. Everyday hats such as the Panama, for men, can require between three and four hours of work. For racing or ceremonial pieces, I would say at least eight hours. Recently, I created a piece for a foundation where I had to attach 1,000 feathers by hand, which took me around a hundred hours. I must admit that I am extremely busy at this time of year, but I love it. And in moments like these, nothing is better than riding horses to recharge my batteries!
G. What defines the Maison Laurette signature?
L. F. It is a very couture signature, deeply rooted in French elegance, with models inspired by the great fashion houses of the 1940s and 1950s. I do not create heavily adorned or cumbersome hats, but rather refined
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