Speciality Chemicals Magazine MAR / APR 2025 | Page 47

COSMETICS & PERSONAL CARE

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Figure 4 – Example of conditioner made using solidification process

Additional formats

Other formats are possible using this technology . Shampoo powders and granules are an obvious choice where processing capabilities are limited . The steps required to create a bar add to the overall processing and may be unnecessary . Appropriate packaging with sustainable credentials could be used and could also mean that plastic is not needed .

Shampoo tablets are already , to a limited extent , available on the market although the same limitations apply as with conventional shampoo bars . As with shampoo bars , additional processing is required .

Tabletting processes typically use direct compression , which only requires a flowable powder to be pressed into a tablet form , whereas larger bars are typically produced using either extrusion or hot pour processes . It may be easier to adapt current tabletting equipment to produce shampoo tablets .

Due to the typical dose of shampoo required , tablets which are essentially around 30 % concentrates of their liquid equivalent will need to be around one third of the weight of the shampoo to give similar performance : around 5g . Additionally , the tablet would need to disintegrate quickly to work effectively as it will be a single dose product . JRS has also carried out some trials to enhance dissolution .

Using a coarser MCC fibre alongside either conventional dry surfactants or converted liquid surfactants , as well as a disintegrant and lubricant , it is possible to produce fast-dissolving tablets . It is important to note that fine forms of the surfactant powder tend to result in poor dissolving performance . Coarser grades allow for much faster dissolution .

Initial trials have shown there is potential to create paper-like shampoo films incorporating the aforementioned technology . Using sodium alginate as a film former in conjunction with fibres loaded with surfactants , the resultant mixture was poured onto a flat surface and dried .

The film produced was something resembling blotting paper that foams and dissolves instantly on contact with water . A good deal more experimentation is required to produce a genuine finished product but the first trials were positive .

Further work

JRS has begun experimenting with conditioning bars and moisture bars . Each product type requires a different set of considerations when looking to produce a dry bar .

Conditioners typically have lower active content and , consequently , higher water content . Are all the solids in liquid conditioners functional with regard to the products conditioning performance ? Ultimately , can some be left out ? Figure 4 shows an example of a conditioner format made using this process .

Likewise with moisture bars , the name implies a moisturising cream or lotion in bar form . This would suggest an emulsifiable oil phase , essentially an emulsion without the water content which , when applied to wet skin , blooms to create an instant lotion effect .

To develop such formulations will require the formulator to go back to first principles to build a product , understanding both the end function of the bar and the functional ingredient required and , equally important , not required . The shampoos bars themselves do not need the additional salt or thickeners that their liquid counterparts require .

Conclusion

The personal care industry is currently undergoing a seismic shift away from product formats that are no longer seen as sustainable . A more considered approach is required where every aspect of the supply chain : raw materials , packaging , logistics and consumer use habits are being challenged .

This new ‘ solidification ’ technology helps reduce the environmental impact in a number of key areas . Solid formats not only help by reducing water consumption and freight requirements but also minimise raw material usage and allow for more environmentally sound packaging solutions . The future is bright , the future is solid ! ●

J j

Trevor Barker

PERSONAL CARE SALES MANAGER UK

RETTENMAIER UK LTD trevor . barker @ rettenmaier . eu www . rettenmaier . eu

MAR / APR 2025 SPECCHEMONLINE . COM

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