West Virginia Executive Spring/Summer 2020 | Page 119
market was nestled in the center with idyllic wood stalls and
red and white roofs. Vendors sold confections, artisans made
gifts, and people gathered over fires drinking warm mulled
wines or mead. The trdelník, a sugar-coated pastry, and roasted
Prague ham are the must-haves for indulgence. I visited five
markets across the city in 72 hours, and my favorite remained
Old Town Square, despite the crowds.
Creating a Unique Experience
To be honest, at times the city was exceptionally and painfully
crowded, making my visit to Prague feel more like a trip
to Epcot’s World Showcase than a European city. The key to
any travel frustration is compromise. Travelers must demand
a unique experience. The trick is discovering how to facilitate
one, and sometimes this requires creativity.
At sunrise, Prague is silent. The beauty of the city is yours
to absorb without distraction. Dealing with the frustration of
the abundance of people, I decided to see Prague when everyone
else was still sleeping. My favorite time in the city over
the four days was right at sunrise and after midnight—no
crowds, all grandeur.
Prague changes with the light, and the morning might be its
key appeal. The soft fog of the new day surrounded the medley
of architectural styles of the city. Prague was spared from the
devastation many European cities experienced in the mid-
20th century and its gothic and Renaissance- and Baroque-era
architecture remains intact. In total, I walked about 35 miles
in four days. Strolling through the labyrinth of streets, I found
hidden cathedrals and gardens and beautiful public art.
Exploring Lesser Town
The Charles Bridge, the most famous of Prague’s many
UNESCO World Heritage Sites, crosses the Vltava River
leading to Malá Strana, or Lesser Town, another district in
Prague. Located in Lesser Town, the Prague Castle and its
grounds are the main attraction. Visitors are free to wander the
Prague Castle grounds, including the impressive spires of the
St. Vitus Cathedral, although some buildings have entry fees.
The panoramic views are worth the climb. With orange-tiled
roofs accompanied by soft pastel-colored walls, the city is
like a painting in every direction.
From this vantage point, Prague reminded me of Lisbon in
its color palate but without the grit that comes from the seas.
Prague is pristine. On the way down from the castle, I passed
puppet shows, cafés, specialty shops and plenty of offerings
for a pilsner. Amongst all the noise about the Czech beer, there
were also several quaint wine bars featuring the pronounced
notes of Czech’s wine region. I stopped at Vinotéka U for a
quick lunch of cured meats and local cheeses, and it was the
perfect stop for some libations and respite from the winter air.
Strolling through Lesser Town, I stumbled onto the Prague
canals, the Franz Kafka Museum and Café Savoy. A perfect
day of meandering ended back at Old Town Square for a tour
of Old Town Hall and the tower where the Astronomical Clock
is housed, where I found that the tower holds the best views
of Prague’s historic district day or night.