West Virginia Executive Spring/Summer 2020 | Page 120

Sharing a Moment of Music
The most surprising feature of Prague was its jazz scene.
Like a European New Orleans, Prague’s historic district is
dotted with exceptional jazz clubs. I stumbled onto two by
accident. Located just a short walk from the Charles Bridge,
U Malého Glena is one of the best jazz clubs in the city. Hidden
downstairs and offering a strong speakeasy vibe, it was intimate
and packed a punch with talent. Offering only about 20 seats,
the jazz musicians played three sets with guest musicians
signing up. It was interesting to see musicians handing over
their instruments to travelers, coming together and bonding
in a shared moment with music.
Behind Old Town Square, U Budovce was another beautiful
Prague coincidence. Hearing the strums of the base a block
over, I followed the sound to find the café nestled away from
crowds. U Budovce, a pizzeria café, is a hidden spot for live
jazz in the historic center. The warm lights and small space
helped the music move through the room. It was the perfect
spot to try the bohemian honey cake, with interwoven layers
of butter, walnuts and honey.
Appreciating Smaller Cities
On my last day in the main city, I ventured into the other
districts. Karlin is an area of Prague with trendy new brew
pubs and eateries like Eska, a new restaurant attempting to
redefine modern Czech cuisine away from sausages and kraut.
It successfully achieved that with its Saturday brunch menu. My
open-face toast with soft scrambled eggs topped with smoked
trout and chives was the perfect combination.
I also visited Kuntá Hora and the wine region of Moravia. Kuntá
Hora is a must-stop for two reasons: St. Barbara’s Cathedral and
Sedlec Ossuary, also known as the Church of Bones. Sedlec
Ossuary houses the bones of 40,000-70,000 people. To deal
with the overabundance of bones during the Black Death,
Sedlec Ossuary’s architectural features were formed from the
exhumed skeletons. The church features a chandelier made
with every bone in the human body. There are not many times
I have been found speechless, but the arrangement and artistry
of how the remains were assembled left me in awe.
An hour from Kuntá Hora was the wine region of Moravia.
The landscape on the way resembled one of Monet’s paintings.
The winter sun, never too strong, peered through the fog nestled
on the rolling hills. There was such a soft palate of colors—
muted, yet distinct. I arrived in Mikulov, a city in Moravia,
at mid-day. Right away, Mikulov’s storybook charm was
apparent. A castle nestled on the highest hill, mazes of Baroque
buildings and tiny boutique wine tasting rooms were scattered
throughout the town.
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WEST VIRGINIA EXECUTIVE