the adventure.
Is the room clean and are the linens fresh? Do they have
hot water? Be sure and test it!
Will the electricity be off in the town for a specified
amount of time and what hours? Is breakfast included? Is
it for one or two people? Do they take cash or credit card?
Is their credit card machine working? Do they have bath
towels?
Think about choosing a location that is a place that is
pleasing to you – like riverfront in a nice campground.
Addressing these issues before making the final deci-
sion will make sleeping in paradise much more comfort-
able and ready for a fresh day on the motorcycle the fol-
lowing day.
tious. In Nairobi, there are a set of busses called ‘matatus’
and they are the Mad Max drivers of East Africa. They are
wreckless, out of control, and will stop at nothing, includ-
ing your measly little motorcycle. They must get to the
next set of customers ready to pay their fare.
The free market system allows for these crazy drivers
to freelance; pick-up and drop-off customers anywhere in
the city.
I was passed on the shoulder, over a curb, in the dirt, by
a matatu simply trying to get ahead of me and not let me
win the Mad Max race.
Hitting his bus with a fist slowed him down a little and
allowed the bike to remain upright.
It was so bad at times, I saw busses squeezed together
and stuck as neither wanted to yield to the other. Quite a
site – but not very fun on a motorcycle knowing the next
squeeze could be you and your bike!
NUMBER 9
Packing The Trans-Africa Load. Take half of what you
have thought that you need!
My basic rule is that EVERYTHING is locked in my pan-
niers, with the exception of the tank bag which I hand-car-
ry, when I leave the bike out of sight.
For me, that means no strapped-on bag on the rear seat
and I know that goes against many overland travellers.
Clothing – you can do laundry on the road and it pays to
bring quick-dry clothes to dry overnight.
NUMBER 8
The Road Warrior ... The Local Version. Think of the
movie Mad Max! Have that in your head! Now translate
this to Nairobi!
Every country has its own set of road expectations and
customs. Most countries in Africa have no motorcycles
larger than 125cc and therefore consider motorcycles not
able to keep up with traffic or a nuisance.
Ethiopia forbids motorcycles on their paid toll-roads.
This put me on the very local roads that took about five
times longer.
Not all countries have wreckless drivers – some are ac-
tually quite respectful and almost to the point of too cau-
TRAVERSE
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