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COSMETICS & PERSONAL CARE
Surfactant micelles
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Formation of a complex while shampooing
Deposition on hair cuticles
Cationic galactomannan
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Water-insoluble actives
Surfactant is rinsed away
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Figure 2- Flocculation mechanism
chemically modified to introduce cationic groups) and polyquaterniums such as polyquaternium-7( synthetic acrylamide-based copolymer) or polyquaternium-10( cationic cellulose ethers). 1 These polymers are not only responsible for conditioning but also for the delivery of other beneficial ingredients via mechanisms such as flocculation during shampoo dilution and rinsing. Guar-based cationic polymers are favoured for their natural origin and their ability to provide effective conditioning, even for moderately to severely damaged hair. However, it is hard to find guar derivatives that combine high performance with a high level of biodegradability,
especially when measured against rigorous standards like those set by the OECD guidelines.
Many high-performing guars are not readily biodegradable, which limits their appeal for brands and consumers focused on sustainability. Polyquaterniums such as PQ-10 are valued for their robust conditioning and formulation stability, but they typically exhibit very poor biodegradability. Bridging the gap between high performance level & high biodegradability is a key focus for ongoing innovation.
Naternal ** Care XTRA, a recent addition to Syensqo’ s Naternal range of polymers with enhanced biodegradability, was developed to offer enhanced biodegradability while maintaining effective conditioning. It is based on a galactomannan derived from fenugreek( Trigonella foenum-graecum), with sources cultivated using non-GMO seeds with full traceability and processed using only water.
Fenugreek galactomannan differs from guar in its galactose-tomannose ratio of about 1:1 compared to 1:2 for guar; it also generally comes with a higher molecular weight, thus opening new possibilities for tailored property design. 2 The resulting polymer, Naternal Care XTRA( INCI: Trigonella Foenum- Graecum Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride), is supplied as a fine yellow powder and has a high natural origin index( Figure 1).
A key property of cationic polymers in shampoos is their ability to flocculate in the presence of anionic surfactants. Flocculation( Figure 2) refers to the aggregation of polymer and surfactant complexes, which can then deposit conditioning agents such as silicones or emollients onto the hair during rinsing. This process is often described as the dilution / deposition mechanism. 3
Initially, cationic polymers are solubilised in the presence of surfactants and other actives within the shampoo bottle. Upon application and rinsing, dilution decreases the
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