Speciality Chemicals Magazine SEP / OCT 2025 | Page 76

COSMETICS & PERSONAL CARE

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Figure 3- Sulfated shampoo flocculation( a) & wet combing testing( b) for various cationic polymers

concentration of surfactants. As the system becomes more dilute, the cationic polymer interacts with anionic surfactants and hydrophobic actives, forming insoluble complexes, or flocs.

These flocs then deposit onto the hair surface, delivering conditioning polymers and other ingredients precisely where they are needed. Flocculation curves are typically plotted by diluting a shampoo formulation across a range of dilution factors and monitoring light transmittance with a UV spectrophotometer.

Bridging performance & sustainability

To evaluate the conditioning performance of various polymers, flocculation testing, wet combing assays, and sensory analysis were conducted on a sulfated chassis( Table 1). Naternal Care XTRA demonstrates a flocculation profile as broad and deep as the bestperforming cationic guars. This means it can aggregate and deposit efficiently across a wide range of dilution conditions.

Compared to PQ-10, Naternal Care XTRA displays a broader and more pronounced flocculation well, indicating greater deposition potential in these systems. In sulfated shampoo bases, it demonstrates a broad and deep flocculation profile, ensuring reliable deposition and conditioning even in challenging formulations( Figure 3).

The flocculation behaviour of Naternal Care XTRA correlates well with its conditioning performance. In combing tests conducted on highly damaged, bleached Caucasian hair( Damage 4) with Diastron FibraOne, sulfated formulations containing Naternal Care XTRA matched PQ- 10 in reducing wet combing force, indicating excellent detangling and manageability.

Sensory evaluations on models further show that Naternal Care XTRA outperforms PQ-10 in homogeneity of care, softness, cleanliness and manageability, particularly in highdamage scenarios. When compared to a leading commercial highcare silicone shampoo, Naternal Care XTRA formulated in sulfated shampoo without silicone delivers equivalent or superior conditioning, especially in tip care and anti-static properties. In terms of formulation robustness, it achieves viscosities comparable to PQ-10 in sulfated systems, with no negative impact on formulation stability.

Naternal Care XTRA was specifically designed for biodegradability, in accordance with OECD 301 and 302 guidelines. Its environmental profile is further strengthened by the use of fenugreek, a renewable, plant-based resource with highly traceable sourcing.

Summary

By leveraging the unique properties of fenugreek-derived galactomannan, Syensqo has delivered a firstin-class polymer that bridges the longstanding gap between sustainability and high performance on damaged hair. Its broad and deep flocculation profile, robust conditioning on highly damaged hair, and enhanced biodegradability make it a compelling alternative to nonbiodegradable polymers.

As part of Syensqo’ s Naternal range, composed of polymers with enhanced biodegradability, Naternal Care Xtra exemplifies the next generation of biobased, biodegradable-by-design polymers. It enables formulators to meet the dual imperatives of consumer performance expectations and environmental stewardship, without compromise. ●

* Also contributing to this article was Margot Bon, home & personal care lab manager at Syensqo ** Naternal is a registered trade mark of Syensqo

Bibliography: 1: Mintel GNPD Search: Products – Shampoo, Conditioner; Worldwide; Last five complete years( 2019 – 2023). 2: I. Ozen et al., Int. J. Biol. Macromol., 2023, 227, 1001. 3: C. J. Thompson et al., Macromol. Chem. Phys., 2023, 224, 2200420.

J j

Marie Arzel

GLOBAL MARKETING MANAGER

SYENSQO marie. arzel @ syensqo. com www. syensqo. com

76 SPECIALITY CHEMICALS MAGAZINE ESTABLISHED 1981