Speciality Chemicals Magazine SEP / OCT 2025 | Page 74

A fenugreek-based, biodegradable polymer for advanced hair conditioning

Dr Sean Ellacott, R & I project manager, and Dr Vincent Miralles, hair care marketing director at Syensqo, introduce Naternal Care XTRA *

The personal care industry sector is experiencing a period of rapid transformation. Consumer expectations are evolving, with a growing emphasis on more natural and biodegradable ingredients.

This shift is driven not only by heightened environmental awareness from consumers but also by regulatory changes in certain areas of the world, notably the EU, and the increasing prevalence of ecolabel requirements. This context presents both a challenge and an opportunity for ingredient suppliers and formulators, especially in the realm of hair care, where conditioning polymers play a critical role in product efficacy.
Science of conditioning polymers
Cationic polymers are central to modern hair care formulations and are widely used to help bring conditioning properties. Their primary function is to condition hair by adsorbing onto the negatively charged surface of hair fibres, forming a thin film that smooths the cuticle, reduces static and improves manageability. This positive charge also facilitates the deposition of other ingredients, such as silicones, oils or even actives( e. g. anti-dandruff), onto the hair, enhancing overall performance.
Among the most widely used cationic polymers in hair care are guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride( a plant-derived galactomannan
-S- 00
O
HO OH
HOii.,.....
0
t'l((. R = H0t
HO
H > C CH >
\ I
0 CHl
HO
OH
n
Extraction
Fenugreek plant
Quaternization
• •
Naternal Care XTRA First-in-class biodegradable cationic Fenugreek for damaged hair target
Fenugreek seeds
Figure 1- Structure of Naternal Care XTRA
74 SPECIALITY CHEMICALS MAGAZINE ESTABLISHED 1981