COSMETICS & PERSONAL CARE historically limited due to its lipophilic nature, necessitating the use of complex emulsification systems or oil phases. Sharon’ s novel waterdispersible solution, Pantrofina * Bakuclear RSPO MB, was developed to unlock the potential of this active in products designed for consumers with oily, combination or acne-prone skin through pre-formulation with biodegradable mild surfactants and solubilisers.
This development enables the effortless incorporation of bakuchiol into clear aqueous systems without compromising its bioactivity. Furthermore, it eliminates the need for additional emulsifiers or solubilisers, streamlining the formulation process, reducing development time and costs, and expanding the versatility of bakuchiol for modern, minimalist and consumer-preferred skincare products.
Formulation for aqueous delivery
The successful aqueous dispersion of lipophilic bakuchiol was achieved by selecting a synergistic blend of mild, biodegradable solubilisers and surfactants, i. e. butylene glycol, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, polyglyceryl-10 laurate and sodium lauroyl glutamate. This enhances solubility and stability while ensuring compatibility with water-based
formulations, without compromising skin barrier integrity.
The formulation maintains clarity and bioactivity while delivering excellent skin tolerance and sensorial performance. It is particularly well-suited for products targeting sensitive, oily or acne-prone skin, supporting transparent textures and minimalist formulation approaches.
The above-mentioned ingredients create a micellar environment stabilising bakuchiol in water-based systems without compromising clarity or performance. The system is transparent, cold-processable and stable. It thus allows formulators to develop clear gels, serums, toners or sprays that deliver bakuchiol effectively, even in low-viscosity, oil-free formats.
This pre-formulated version of bakuchiol facilitates water-based application and offers significant advantages in terms of formulation ease and manufacturing efficiency. Pure bakuchiol, being liposoluble and viscous, poses several formulating challenges: it is difficult to disperse in emulsions or gels evenly, requires higher processing temperatures and is unsuitable for cold-process formulations. Moreover, it demands precise optimisation trials and generates operational challenges.
Conversely, the pre-formulated bakuchiol simplifies integration into a broader range of cosmetic formats, including those based on silicones. Its optimised dispersion ensures uniform delivery, while its ready-to-use nature streamlines the development process, reduces formulation time and enhances batch consistency. These characteristics make it a valuable tool for formulators seeking to balance efficacy, simplicity and scalability.
Promoting skin health
To demonstrate Pantrofina Bakuclear RSPO MB’ s ability to reduce acne lesions in terms of volume and area and balance sebum secretion, we conducted a double-blind 28- day clinical study comparing its performance with pure bakuchiol and its suitability for daily use.
Forty women aged 18 to 35, all with acne-prone skin and visible acne lesions, half of whom had clinically assessed sensitive skin, were enrolled in the study. This application is typically limited for retinol, due to its associated irritation and photo-instability.
Half of the participants applied a facial serum containing 5 % PantrofinaBakuclear RSPO MB( delivering 0.3 % active bakuchiol) twice daily, while the other half applied a reference serum containing 0.3 % pure bakuchiol. Given the concentration of bakuchiol within
Figure 2 – Sebum level: Pantrofina Bakuclear RSPO MB vs. reference |
0
-2
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Sebum level |
-11.2 % |
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....
-4
0-6
>-8
Q)
C-10
f
Q)
:t::-12 0
*-14
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-16 |
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-18
-20
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* D28 vs. DO |
■ Pantrofina Bakuclear ■ Reference
* p < 0.05 vs. TO
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