Water-soluble bakuchiol
Dr Anna Aharoni of Sharon Personal Care introduces a botanical retinoid alternative for advanced skin care
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Figure 1 – Acne spot volume & area: Pantrofina Bakuclear RSPO MB vs. reference
■ Pantrofina Bakuclear
* p < 0.05 vs. TO
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The cosmetics industry is actively seeking alternatives to retinol due to its welldocumented side effects, despite its proven efficacy. While retinol remains a gold standard covering a broad range of efficacy claims, it is often associated with side effects, such as skin irritation, dryness, peeling and photosensitivity, which limit its use among individuals with sensitive or compromised skin.
Furthermore, regulatory restrictions and consumer demand for‘ clean’, gentle and plant-based ingredients have accelerated the shift toward safer, naturally derived actives. The ideal retinol alternative would deliver comparable benefits without irritation, broadening its appeal and suitability across a broader range of skin types and formulation formats.
Bakuchiol is a meroterpene that has recently aroused great interest in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries as a compelling botanical alternative to retinol. Its primary source is the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia, a medicinal plant native to Asia.
Unlike retinol, which is associated with side effects such as irritation, dryness, and photosensitivity, bakuchiol exhibits a sufficient safety profile and is well-tolerated even by sensitive and acne-prone skin. Its mechanism of action includes mimicking Retinol’ s gene expression modulation, impacting pathways like collagen type I alpha 1 chain( COL1A1), matrix metallo-proteinases( MMPs) and transforming growth factor beta( TGF-β) without inducing irritation.
Additionally, bakuchiol downregulates the expression of inflammatory cytokines such as TNF-α and IL-6, demonstrating anti-inflammatory activity1 and contributing to acne lesion reduction. Recently, it has been shown to exhibit antioxidant properties by inhibiting lipid peroxidation in sebaceous environments and providing antibacterial action. 2, 3
Why a watersoluble version?
Individuals with acne-prone and oily skin typically prefer lightweight, non-comedogenic formulations that do not clog pores, enhance sebum production, or leave a greasy residue on the skin surface. Water-based gels, fluid emulsions and oil-free serums are particularly well-suited for these consumers, offering hydration while maintaining a fresh, breathable skin feel.
Despite the rising popularity of bakuchiol, its incorporation into clear aqueous formulations has been
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