Speciality Chemicals Magazine SEP / OCT 2025 | Page 67

COSMETICS & PERSONAL CARE can lead to distinct vertical lines on the temples, cheeks and around the eyes. These are often more pronounced than other wrinkle types and deepen over time. Considering that we spend roughly a third of our lives sleeping, the cumulative impact over time is significant.
Typically, sleep wrinkles are periorbital or appear above the eyes( Figure 2), and are often characterised by a vertical orientation compared to other types of wrinkles. These lines tend to become more pronounced in these specific zones over time.
All wrinkle types, regardless of origin, are typically managed with well-known cosmetic actives such as hyaluronic acid( HA), retinol or Argireline, which help to hydrate the skin and to smooth or relax facial lines. In addition, sun protection and antioxidant care can provide global skin support, helping to preserve the skin matrix and delay the appearance of wrinkles.
However, sleep wrinkles present a unique challenge. Because they are caused by repeated mechanical compression during sleep, they cannot be addressed with classical protective, moisturising or muscle-relaxing cosmetics alone.
This article investigates whether PrimalHyal ** UltraReverse, a extra low molecular weight(< 3,000
- 1. 2 %
- 1. 2 %
Da) HA with an intracellular mode of action, can effectively target all types of wrinkles, including sleep wrinkles, a largely under-addressed category. It penetrates the skin cells, directly activating intracellular processes and delivers a four-fold rejuvenating effect:
• Restoring DNA methylation processes and sirtuin activity, and limiting cryptic transcription
• Boosting DNA repair
• Reactivating telomerase expression and activity
• Increasing proteasome activity to deliver anti-ageing efficacy from the heart of the skin cells( data not shown)
Materials & methodology
Givaudan Active Beauty conducted a clinical study on 40 women aged 50 to 75( phototypes I to IV), all showing visible wrinkles and fine lines. Participants were randomly divided into two groups. One group received a topical application of PrimalHyal UltraReverse at 0.5 %, the other a placebo.
Evaluations were performed using VISIA CR2.3, with a dedicated analysis mask for areas most affected by sleep wrinkles, namely the periorbital region and the area above the eyes. Assessments were carried out at Days 0, 28 and 56,
�- 1 4. 7 % * � D 0D x active vs placebo �- 1 4. 7 % * � D 0D x active vs placebo
with clinical photography to track visual changes.
Two key facial zones were selected for analysis due to their susceptibility to sleep-related compression: the periorbital area( around the eyes, which typically displays the first signs of ageing) and the area above the eyes( including the upper eyelids and brow bone). Results were measured separately for each zone to assess the specific efficacy of PrimalHyal UltraReverse in reducing sleep wrinkle formation in both regions.
Volunteers came at the same time for each visit in order to standardise the visibility of wrinkles due to compression. Illustrative photos were also taken with the volunteers lying down on a Purform pillow on the side where they usually sleep.
Results around the eyes
The periorbital region, which is highly susceptible to sleepinduced mechanical stress, tends to develop distinctive vertical wrinkles due to consistent pressure and compression during lateral or prone sleep positions. This area was selected as a key target zone for evaluating the effectiveness of PrimalHyal UltraReverse.
After 56 days of twice-daily application at 0.5 %, PrimalHyal
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Figure 3 – Reduction of fine wrinkles on the periorbital area on application of PrimalHyal UltraReverse
Note: Area under the curve: product efficacy all along the study, in comparison to placebo. The higher the number, the more effective the active ingredient was compared to the placebo
Figure 4- Reduction of fine wrinkles above the eyes on application of PrimalHyal UltraReverse
Note: Area under the curve: product efficacy all along the study, in comparison to placebo. The higher the number, the more effective the active ingredient was compared to the placebo
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