Sleep wrinkles & the role of extra low molecular weight hyaluronic acid solutions
Catherine Zanchetta and Émilie Chapuis of Givaudan Active Beauty share some results for PrimalHyal UltraReverse *
The process of ageing takes a visible toll on the skin, with wrinkles among the most recognisable signs of facial ageing. Wrinkles develop gradually and are due to structural changes in the epidermis, dermis and hypodermis.
Over time, repeated compression and a natural decline in skin elasticity result in permanent creasing. Once a tipping point is reached in the mechanical balance between skin layers, wrinkles become permanently folded, deep-set and more resistant to correction. 1
In 2003, Belgian dermatologist Gérald E. Pierard established a classification for wrinkles, grouping them into four categories based on histological and aetiological differences: 1. Atrophic wrinkles, due to a degradation of the extracellular matrix and which disappear with skin traction
2. Elastotic wrinkles, which develop in sun-exposed skin, are permanent and do not disappear with skin traction
3. Expression wrinkles, due to subdermal muscle contraction, which become permanent over time
4. Gravitational wrinkles, due to skin sagging in response to gravitational forces and inelasticity2- 4
While Pierard’ s classification provides a valuable framework for understanding wrinkle morphology, each type also responds differently to treatment, making tailored cosmetic strategies essential.
Figure 1- External forces act on facial tissues in a lateral or prone sleep position. Source: Anson et al.
A new wrinkle category
In 2016, Anson et al., identified a new classification of wrinkles which develop during side or stomach sleeping and in areas subject to prolonged compression: sleep wrinkles( Figure 1). 5 These arise from
a mechanical forces applied to the face during sleep, particularly in lateral or prone( face down) positions.
The repeated pressure, shearing and compression on delicate facial tissues, especially in areas such as the periorbital region and upper cheeks,
Figure 2- Overall wrinkles described by Piérard A. Expression wrinkles, B. Sleep wrinkles.
Source: Anson et al. b
66 SPECIALITY CHEMICALS MAGAZINE ESTABLISHED 1981