Plantasens Biogum Tara is formulated for superior viscosity building and less stringiness
Naturally active in beauty
Clariant is showcasing two natural active ingredients and a new , biodegradable rheology modifier .
Before the announcement that In-Cosmetics Global 2021 had been postponed again , Clariant was focusing its presence there on three new products and the fifth edition of its BeautyForward concept . All this was showcased in a dedicated press conference . Describing personal care as “ one of the most strategic market segments for Clariant ”, Fabio Caravieri , global marketing segment leader , outlined how the firm has been investing in innovation centres and people , notably the recently established One Clariant Campus in China , but also at others in France , Brazil and elsewhere . “ Our key vision , Envision Beauty , is about our belief that , through our technologies and together with our customers , we can make the beauty industry more sustainable , natural and aspirational for consumers ,” Caravieri said . “ We believe we have a competitive advantage with our natural , green , highperformance technologies .” Three areas he highlighted in this context were :
• I nspiration and formulation , based around the increasing importance of trend-scouting and demonstrating the benefits of the technologies
• Digital services , such as the ClariHub customer platform , which was launched shortly afterwards and makes product information and other expertise available to customers 24 / 7
• Natural actives , which is also driven by the prior trends towards low carbon footprint ingredients and biodegradability , and which accounted for two of the three product launches
New actives
Developed with Biospectrum , Celyscence is a natural active extracted from the milk thistle flower . According to Alexandre Lapeyre , global head of marketing and business development at Clariant Active Ingredients , it brings the benefits of medical advances in skin senescence to cosmetics . “ Healthy ageing has become a key topic for the cosmetic industry ,” said Lapeyre . “ In the natural life cycle , skin cells , such as fibroblasts and keratinocytes , multiply with age and are eliminated by apoptosis to be replaced by new , functional ones . But as we age , the replacement process is impaired and cells that have lost of their functionality and remain in the skin .” These cells are called senescent , or zombie , cells because they should have died but have not . They also release senescence-associated secretory proteins ( SASPs ) like cytokines and metalloproteinases , which damage surrounding cells , turning them senescent . This all undermines a healthy skin structure , causing agerelated disorders , including dull , dehydrated skin and loss of firmness due to decreased collagen production . Three main mechanisms are used to fight zombie cells : preventing them from becoming senescent by inducing apoptosis ; preventing them from producing SASPs ; and / or , making them young again . Active ingredients usually target one or two of these means but Celyscence targets all three at the same time . In creating it , Clariant Active Ingredients and its partner developed a replicative senescence model from primary human fibroblasts . This demonstrated that Celyscence can prevent or reduce cell senescence , kill zombie cells by inducing the apoptosis mechanism without touching younger cells and “ drastically reduce ” the production of SASPs and the expression of cell senescence markers . Tests were carried out with a panel of 30 women aged 50-60 , all with visible wrinkles on the neck and chest , half applying a cream containing 3 % Celyscence and half a placebo cream on one half of their face , twice daily
32 SPECIALITY CHEMICALS MAGAZINE ESTABLISHED 1981