COSMETICS & PERSONAL CARE for 56 days . Results showed increases in skin hydration of 8.6 % after 14 days and 14 % after 56 among the former group , as well as a more luminous and even appearance . The second new active , developed with Beraca , is Ethience Protect , a barrier function balancer for skin care that protects the skin from the effects of environmental impacts , friction , stress , fatigue and ageing . This is based on an extract of Brazil nuts , which are sourced from the Amazon rainforest in a fully traceable and transparent manner , and crushed to extract the oils and polyphenols . According to Julie Droux , senior technical marketing specialist at Clariant Active Ingredients , Ethience Protect acts on the three levels to ensure a strong and resilient barrier function , relieving compromised skin :
• Enhancing the protective outermost lipid layer , boosting lipid metabolism , to prevent the entry of external components
• Restoring the ‘ bricks and mortar quality ’ of the stratum corneum , to uphold a strong , cohesive structure
• Restoring keratinocyte solidity and cohesion in the epidermis , notably by increasing keratin-10 production , thus reinforcing skin structure
The efficacy of Ethience Protect in protecting compromised skin was tested on two groups of people : women who wear masks every day and men who shave every day . Both processes compromise the skin barrier through friction , leading to increased transepidermal water loss . In the former group , Ethience Protect increased skin hydration by 29 % after seven days of application and by almost 52 % after 35 days . In the latter , the figures were 19 % and 28 % respectively . Both also experienced reduce redness and improved skin tone , Droux said .
Inspired by food
Launched in April , Plantasens Biogum Tara is a 100 % natural and readily biodegradable rheology modifier for leave-on skin care formulations like creams , lotions and masks . This is also the first product of Clariant ’ s partnership with Polygal , a Swiss specialist in vegetable hydrocolloids and natural polymers for industrial and food applications . “ With this thickener and texturiser , we are responding to the market trends of natural and responsible beauty ,” said Martina Beitke , global launch manager for consumer care . “ It addresses the growing preferences for products that are both of natural origin and which decompose easily after use .” Plantasens Biogum Tara is based on tara gum , a food ingredient , which is derived from the Tara spinosa plant by physical processing , with no need for chemical modification or solvents . In molecular terms , it is a polysaccharide , with a mannose backbone and galactose side chains in a 3:1 ratio . Clariant and Polygal specifically set out to do address the three commonest hurdle formulators face when using natural gums . Studies , said Thomas Lukovicz , global application manager for personal care have found that it has superior viscosity building ( up to five times higher viscosity at 1 % use level than xantham gum ) and less stringiness , while allowing the creation of more pleasant , more homogenous textures . As well as being of 100 % natural origin and Cosmos-registered , Plantasens Biogum Tara has a renewable carbon index of 100 %, meeting all of the relevant ecolabel standards . It is biodegradable to ECD guideline 301B , Lukovicz said , meaning that it can biodegrade within a ten-day window . These and other Clariant ingredients are also part of BeautyForward , which , the company claims , “ captures the shifting needs of personal care consumers and links them to innovative chemistry ”. •
Celyscence is targetted at multiple processes causing skin ageing
Stefanie Nehlsen
MARKETING COMMUNICATIONS
CLARIANT k + 41 61 469 6742 J stefanie . nehlsen @ clariant . com j www . clariant . com
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