COSMETICS & PERSONAL CARE
30nm . This means that ‘ nano ’ -TiO 2 and -ZnO are 30 times the size of chemical UV filters . 2
Defining ‘ nano ’
Whilst ‘ nano ’ does generally mean 1-100nm in size there currently is no single global definition of ‘ nano ’. Particles exist in a continuum of sizes , and have various structures , internal and external dimensions . This is why the definition is so complex . In Europe , ‘ nano ’ is well-defined but there is still no consistency between cosmetics and chemical legislation . 3 , 4 , 5 We are also now seeing divergence even in the member states , such as France . Compounding the problem is that there is no standard regulated test method and different test methods give different results . Cosmetic companies have to navigate the definitions and measurements of ‘ nano ’ -TiO 2 and -ZnO to allow them to determine what they need for the regulatory obligations in the markets they wish to sell in . For smaller companies , this can be very challenging .
Skin penetration
Tying into the assumption that ‘ nano ’ filters are the smallest ingredient in the product , consumers are often concerned that the filters will penetrate the skin due to their size . Extensive safety data exists , and evidence shows that both ‘ nano and ‘ non-nano ’ TiO 2 and ZnO largely do not penetrate the skin . 6 This is confirmed by both the EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety 7 , 8 , 9 10 , 11 and the US FDA .
Registration
Many people think that if they use a ‘ nano ’ UV filter , they will have to register it in their finished product . The Cosmetic Product Notification Portal ( CPNP ) states that products containing nanomaterials must be specifically notified under six months prior to placing on the market , unless the nanomaterial is a UV filter , colourant , or preservative ( in this case it must be listed in the respective
There is no evidence that sunscreens cause coral bleaching in the wild
positive list in its ‘ nano ’ form ) or listed in Annex III in its ‘ nano ’ form . All of Croda ’ s ‘ nano ’ products are listed in the positive list in their ‘ nano ’ form . Therefore , they do not require the user to notify them in the CPNP .
Naturality & safety
There is a myth that mineral UV filters are better because natural means safer . It is important to understand that the derivation of an ingredient is not an indication of its safety . Both natural and synthetic materials can be harmful . The ‘ clean beauty ’ movement has led to a narrative of chemical phobia which is common on social media , especially in the area of clean sunscreens . In the case of mineral UV filters , they are both safe and natural .
TiO 2 and ZnO are the only two UV filters that are GRASE category 1 in the US 12 and they have a safe use with no adverse reactions and no evidence of allergenicity . 13 In addition to this they are nature-identical minerals and COSMOS-approved .
Biodegradability
The biodegradability of ingredients and finished products is becoming an increasing concern for both brands and consumers . ‘ Biodegradable ’ means to be able to decay naturally and without harming the environment . 14
Biodegradability is a measure of how quickly organic carbons are degraded in the ecosystem , and when there are no organic carbons such a measurement is not relevant . As there are no organic carbons present in either TiO 2 and ZnO , the measurement is not relevant . They cannot biodegrade as they are inert minerals and they already occur naturally in the environment .
‘ Chemical-free ’
Everything is a chemical and the broad term ‘ chemical-free ’ is considered by many to be greenwashing as it creates a false impression about the product . Some brands are making ‘ chemical-free ’ claims for sunscreens to show that they are not based on organic filters . All UV filters are fundamentally chemical substances . Mineral filters are natural-identical minerals , so they are preferred by natural and clean sunscreen brands and certifications , but this does not change the fact that they are chemicals .
Coral bleaching
A myth widely perpetuated by the media is that sunscreen is a major cause of coral bleaching . The truth is that there is actually no direct evidence that sunscreens can cause coral bleaching in the wild . 15 This is also the conclusions of a recent
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