COSMETICS & PERSONAL CARE
‣ critical review on organic UV filter exposure hazard and risk to corals . 16 In our industry there is concern that this claim is distracting from the real cause of coral bleaching , which is climate change and , has the potential to undermine sun protection products in general . 17 However , oxybenzone ( benzophenone-3 ) and octinoxate ( ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate ) are banned in the state of Hawaii . In addition , a bill is in progress to also ban avobenzone ( butyl methoxydibenzylmethane ) and octocrylene . This is driving the market away from organic UV filters and towards inorganic UV filters , which are not under scrutiny by authorities .
Formulating
The potential for mineral sunscreens to be whitening is often a key factor that discourages both consumers from trying mineral sunscreens and brands from formulating using them .
TiO 2 and ZnO work by both absorbing
18 , 19 and scattering or reflecting light .
If they scatter visible light back to the surface they can leave a white cast on the skin , but Croda is continually developing technology to avoid this phenomenon . 20 Currently , nanomaterials are the first choice for high protection with low whitening , such as the Solaveil Clarus range . However , Croda ’ s most recent launch Solaveil MicNo offers great transparency with a ‘ non-nano ’ product . This is an example of the advances in mineral sun care technology . Figure 1 shows the comparison of the ‘ non-nano ’ Solaveil MicNo and ‘ nano ’ Solaveil Clarus .
Outlook
With so much misinformation available today it can be hard to separate fact from fiction . Mineral sun care products continue to grow and , although we have looked at many myths during this article , we have not tackled them all . For this reason , Croda has experts on hand to support formulators working with our Solaveil range of products . •
* - Written in collaboration with Croda ’ s sun care experts Helene Hine , Clare Liptrot , Joseph Peake and Dr Robert Sayer
References 1 : onlinelibrary . wiley . com / doi / 10.1111 / ics . 12030
2 : www . teknoscienze . com / tks _ article / nanotechnology-and-suncare-a-risk-review /
3 : eur-lex . europa . eu / legal-content / EN / ALL /? uri = CELEX % 3A32009R1223
4 : ec . europa . eu / environment / chemicals / nanotech / reach-clp / index _ en . htm #:~: text = REACH % 20is % 20the % 20 over % 2Darching , no % 20explicit % 20reference % 20to % 20 nanomaterials
5 : docplayer . net / 54947113-Cosmetics-europe-nano-guidancepackage . html
6 : pubmed . ncbi . nlm . nih . gov / 20354643 /
7 : ec . europa . eu / health / scientific _ committees / consumer _ safety / docs / sccs _ o _ 136 . pdf
8 : ec . europa . eu / health / sites / default / files / scientific _ committees / consumer _ safety / docs / sccs _ o _ 206 . pdf
9 : ec . europa . eu / health / scientific _ committees / consumer _ safety / docs / sccs _ o _ 103 . pdf
10 : www . fda . gov / news-events / press-announcements / fdaadvances-new-proposed-regulation-make-sure-sunscreens-aresafe-and-effective
11 : www . federalregister . gov / documents / 2019 / 02 / 26 / 2019-03019 / sunscreen-drug-products-for-over-the-counter-human-use
12 : www . fda . gov / news-events / press-announcements / fdaadvances-new-proposed-regulation-make-sure-sunscreens-aresafe-and-effective
13 : acaai . org / resources / connect / ask-allergist / sunscreen-allergy 14 : dictionary . cambridge . org / dictionary / english / biodegradable
15 : theconversation . com / theres-insufficient-evidence-yoursunscreen-harms-coral-reefs-109567
16 : setac . onlinelibrary . wiley . com / doi / pdf / 10.1002 / etc . 4948 17 : www . ctpa . org . uk / reference-zone / sunscreens-and-coral 18 : pubmed . ncbi . nlm . nih . gov / 10052415 /
19 : D . Schlossman & Y . Shao in N . A . Shaath ( ed ) Sunscreens : Regulations & Commercial Development , 3rd edition , New York , Taylor & Francis , 2005 , pp . 239 – 279
20 : pubmed . ncbi . nlm . nih . gov / 22003836 /
Amy Poulton
SALES DEVELOPMENT SPECIALIST
CRODA
J j amy . poulton @ croda . com www . crodapersonalcare . com
42 SPECIALITY CHEMICALS MAGAZINE ESTABLISHED 1981