SUSTAINABILITY
Roquette launched three new alginates at In-Cosmetics
compatible with both water-inoil emulsions and non-aqueous formulations like lipsticks and powders, where it improves performance, colour pay-off and sensory, with better compaction.
“ Esmeri is targeting the replacement of microplastics – nylon, PMMA and silica, too – because some can be considered nano and we are hearing a lot about non-nano as a trend,” Boykin said.
Whilst Lanxess’ s Scope Blue series of products with low carbon footprints is not new, the company did have some new insights to share The products are based on green toluene from used cooking oil, certified sustainable via MB, so that the company does not have to convert its continuous processes to batch and customers can use it a drop-in.
“ We calculated the carbon footprint of the product based on green raw material and found that it was basically zero or even minus if you include the carbon credit for energy consumption in the process,” said Dr Matthias Kunze, business development manager at the Flavours & Fragrances business unit.
In addition to the standard climate change factors, Lanxess’ s LCA method takes into account some 20 other parameters in its carbon footprint calculations, like land use, ecotoxicity, eutrophication, water use and fossil resource use. For customers, Kunze said, these are“ a significant part of the story because sustainability is not just about climate change.”
Sustainability, he added,“ comes with a price tag and this is one of the topics we have to discuss”. Lanxess offers different grades of sustainable products: if the customer does not require a zero carbon footprint, it can still sell them something with a very good performance in terms of sustainability, as well as not compromising performance.
From algae to apples
The highlight from Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant was AlgaSurge, a regenerative skin care active derived from a lab-grown extremophile microalga through a blue biotechnology platform the company is developing. Part of its sustainability profile, said Philippe Daigle, active ingredients portfolio manager, is the ability to reuse the water after culture, extraction and filtration to cultivate more algae.
This highly purified sulfated polysaccharide offers a botanical alternative to polydeoxyribonucleotide( PRDN), a regenerative skincare ingredient that is traditionally derived from salmon or trout DNA. It also biomimics the benefits of HA but, unlike HA, its polysaccharide resists enzymatic degradation.
In a similar vein, Roquette announced three new alginates sourced from renewable brown seaweed: Beauty by Roquette AG 215, AG 219 and AG 29. These are readily biodegradable and offer different gelling properties from viscous or elastic gels to firmer, shape-keeping properties for jelly and stick formats, suspension properties and viscosity respectively. All also offer a cooling effect and a light, smooth skin-feel, the company claims.
Symrise’ s recently created Care & Wellness division notably launched Cellexora MD. This product is based on exosomes, the delivery systems plant cells use to exchange nutrients and genetic instructions in much the same way as human skin cells. It is upcycled from organic apples sourced and processed in Italy that cannot be sold commercially.
The company has studied Cellexora MD’ s effects on all seven hallmarks of skin ageing, and proved that it support deep skin regeneration and vitality.“ We really wanted to bring efficacy, sustainability and also innovation,” said Héloïse Bouchez, global product manager at the Actives & Botanicals business unit. Other new botanical products from Symrise are based on pineapples and coconuts sourced by similar means.
DSM-Firmenich’ s new Exovive Lift, finally, is also based on exosomes from organic apples, tangerines and papayas sourced in Italy, then“ isolated and preserved at full potency through a highly sustainable proprietary extraction technology”. The company cited a two-month-long, placebo-controlled clinical study demonstrating 30 % improvement in skin elasticity and wrinkle reversal equivalent to eight years of ageing. ●
JUL / AUG 2026 SPECCHEMONLINE. COM
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