Among the new launches from Evonik was Ecohance Soft BOL( INCI: Butyl Oleate), which the company describes as“ a sustainably sourced ester oil for sun care, skin care and colour cosmetics that delivers silky sensorial benefits while achieving an exceptionally low product carbon footprint”. It is made using lowtemperature enzymatic catalysis and renewable electricity from the Duisburg site.
Ecohance Soft BOL is based on three separate waste- and side streams from food production: potatoes rejected as unfit for food or feed use and whisky‘ pot ale’ for the butanol part and oleic acid, a side product of olive oil production for the oleate. Thus it is not competing with food production and is fully utilising waste, noted Dr Sophia Düber, technical manager in the Applied Innovation team for skincare.
The same themes featured in the launches of Tego Filmstar BST 1
( INCI Name: Behenoyl Polyglyceryl-3 / Hydrogenated Dilinoleic Acid / Sebacic Acid Crosspolymer), a biobased, biodegradable film former designed to boost SPF performance, and Sphinohance Clear( INCI: Ceramide NG( and) Glycolipids( and) Sodium Benzoate( and) Aqua),
Cellexora MD uses plant exosomes to create skin rejuvenation products
a glycolipid-ceramide fusion for transparent formulations in skin, hair and scalp care.“ Sustainability is a cornerstone of all our innovation, especially with Ecohance,” said Düber.
Balanced approach
Among many other novelties at its stand, BASF had two product launches that enhanced the sustainability credentials of existing products, according to Dr Ulrich Issberner, director of market development for sun care at BASF Care Creations
Uvinul T 150 X EcoBalanced( INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone) is its first biomass balance( BMB) UVB filter for sunscreen formulations. This is made in a process that replaces fossil feedstocks with renewables. The biobased input is allocated through a MB methodology that complies with verified sustainability criteria and is independently certified according to REDcert and audited by TÜV Nord. It matches the original grade for performance and requires no reformulation, Issberner said.
BASF also introduced Plantigenix Bisabolol( INCI: Bisabolol), which is made via fermentation instead of sourcing it from chamomile or wild trees, thus reducing pressure on natural resources. The company says that this process yields only the most biologically active and naturally occurring isomer, offering superior purity and efficacy, with lower farnesol content than the mixed racemic synthetic grades. Like existing grades, it is targeted at sensitive skin applications, including after-sun, after-shave and scalp care.
Dow said that its stand showcased“ 27 formulation prototypes spanning skin care, scalp care, colour cosmetics and hair care- all focused on delivering high-performance, sensorial experiences with a strong sustainability lens”. Much of this combined Dow Corning ' s silicones capabilities with Dow’ s organic portfolio, Marques said.
New at In-Cosmetics was Dowsil EL-9400 Hybrid Elastomer Blend( INCI: C9-12 Alkane( and) Bis-( Dimethylvinylsiloxy) Poly( Propanediol Dimer Dilinoleate)/ Dimethicone Crosspolymer). This elastomer gel is carried in a biobased, readily biodegradable fluid and is designed to support regulatory-compliant formulations, while delivering smooth aesthetics and a rich after-feel. Applications include sunscreen gels, primers, scrubs and colour cosmetics.
Ecosmooth Universal Fluid 2000( INCI: PPG-5 Butyl Ether) is the latest addition to an existing range. Also readily biodegradable, it was on show in 11 formulations, for example at 5 % in an O / W leave-on emulsion that also used Dow’ s MaizeCare Clarity Polymer, a hydrolysed corn starch and EcoSmooth APP-5000 Formulation Aid, both at 2 %. Others include rollon and solid deodorants, make-up remover, hair oil and face serum, a primer and other skin and colour cosmetics emulsions.
Updated for today
Eastman’ s Kalidex( INCI: Ethylhexyl 3-Hydroxybutyrate) is a readily biodegradable amphiphilic foambooster and viscosity-enhancer. It typically boosts foam by 40-45 %, depending on the surfactant chassis. Kalidex was developed for sulfatefree shampoos that typically lack the foaming and viscosity consumers want, though it also works in sulfatecontaining formulations and in body washes and other foaming applications. It is not yet biobased in origin but may be in due course.
Also new to the European market was Eastman Esmeri CC1N10( INCI: Cellulose Acetate Butyrate), a readily biodegradable cellulose ester micropowder for colour cosmetics sourced from sustainably managed forests. Unusually, it is
62 SPECIALITY CHEMICALS MAGAZINE ESTABLISHED 1981