breed & species spotlights
Why are they called“ bearded” dragons?
They have a spiny throat pouch, or“ beard”, which can puff out and darken when they feel threatened, stressed or are displaying dominance. This beard gives them their dragonlike appearance and common name.
Wild vs captive-bred
Captive-bred dragons are generally more accustomed to human interaction and handling. Bearded dragons selectively bred in captivity can also come in various colour morphs. Wild dragons, by contrast, display more natural camouflage colouring and are more wary of predators and human presence.
Creating the right enclosure
A proper setup is an absolute non-negotiable.
• Vivarium: Minimum 1 200x 60x60mm for one dragon( larger, such as 1500x60x 60mm, is recommended). Wood enclosures retain heat better than glass.
• Ventilation: At least four vents( two near the basking zone at the top and two near the cool zone at the bottom).
• UVB Tube( T5 or T8) with reflector and controller: No coil bulbs. Replace T8 every 4 – 6 months; T5 every 10 – 12 months.
• Basking bulb( white light only) with ceramic E27 holder.
• Basking spot: Large flat slate or rock for effective thermoregulation.
• Temperature gun for measuring surface temperatures.
• Dimming thermostat( Dimmerstat) for basking control.
• Optional: UVB meter( recommended reading: 280 – 350 μW / cm ² at basking spot).
Why UVB matters
UVB is essential for calcium metabolism and vitamin D3 synthesis. Without adequate UVB, bearded dragons are at high risk of metabolic bone disease( MBD), which can cause soft bones, deformities, lethargy, and eventually, death. Linear UVB tubes with proper coverage are strongly recommended over coil bulbs.
Temperature gradients:
• Cool side ambient: 22 – 27 ° C
• Warm side ambient: 27 – 30 ° C
• Basking air temperature: about 38 ° C
• Basking surface temperature: 40 – 44 ° C
• Skin temperature while basking: 38 – 40 ° C
• Optimal core body temperature: 36.3 ° C
• Night temperature: 18 – 20 ° C( only provide heat at night if the house drops below 15 ° C)
Proper gradients are only achievable in adequately sized enclosures.
Common enclosure mistakes:
• Using coloured bulbs, red lights or night lights.
• Using heat rocks or heat mats( they can cause burns and do not heat air properly).
• Using reptile carpet( harbours bacteria).
• Incorrect UVB( coil bulbs or expired tubes).
• Not measuring temperatures accurately with probes and temp gun.
• Enclosures that are too small
Monitoring equipment:
• Digital thermometer / hygrometer( x2) with probes for warm and cool sides.
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