MENU dorset issue 12 issue 12 | Page 8

P Dorset L E N T Y The Vital Ingredi ent: Brussels Spr uts Tom East discovers that sprouts aren’t just for Christmas, and they’re certainly not for boiling for 20 minutes. W 8 hen heavy rainfall threatened a sprout shortage in 2012, half the country were probably having their Christmas celebrations early. This Marmite of the vegetable world certainly splits opinion – the haters probably can’t shake the memory of these little cabbage bombs seeping sulphuric odours from their criss-crossed bottoms. That’s what happens when you heed your granny’s advice and boil the brassicas for 20 minutes, before dumping them naked on a cold plate next to the overcooked turkey. However, when boiled for five minutes and tossed with pancetta, sprouts, shallots and foaming butter, they are like a different vegetable. That said, if you are having them alongside turkey, stuffing, and those moreish little sausages wrapped in bacon, you might want to keep things simple and serve your sprouts with a garlic or citrus butter. You can even roast them alongside your other veg, caramelising their outer leaves to bring out some natural sweetness. Sprouts, like dogs, shouldn’t just be for Christmas. The reason why sprouts are devoured on the big day is because, other than kale, they’re pretty much the only green vegetable that’s in season in December. Yet, unlike kale - which has enjoyed a renaissance - the poor sprout is tolerated as a traditional festive vegetable, before being discarded for another year along with the bread sauce. It shouldn’t be that way. The Brussels sprout is just as good for you as kale. An 80g serving of sprouts contains four times as much vitamin C as an orange, while they also contain high levels of vitamin A, folic acid and fibre. Sprouts can be treated like cabbage, meaning they’re great sliced and stir-fried with chicken or pork, nuts, soy sauce, garlic, ginger and chilli. Or, if you want a saucier tea, try smothering them with a good-quality Chinese oyster sauce. You can also make a meal of them with pasta, red chilli, garlic, a little cooking water and parmesan. Or you could go heavier and serve them in a cream sauce with bacon and grated cheese. Sprouts needn’t be just a sideshow at Christmas dinner – they’re in season until March, so these little members of the cabbage family will stick around long after the party is over, if you extend the welcome. Brussels sprouts and bacon penne pasta (Serves 2) Ingredients 200g penne pasta 300g baby sprouts 3 shallots, sliced 1 tbsp olive oil 1 garlic clove, thinly sliced 1 red chilli, finely chopped 8 slices of streaky bacon, cut into cubes Parmesan, grated Method 1. Heat the oil in a frying pan and cook the bacon bits until they’re brown. Remove from the pan. 2. Finely slice the shallots and gently fry in a glug of olive oil for around 10 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, put the pasta in a large pan of boiling, salted water. 4. When the shallots are softened, add the garlic and the chilli to the pan for a minute, then stir in the bacon. 5. With the pasta five minutes away from being cooked, add the sprouts to the water. 6. Drain the pasta and sprouts, and add them to the bacon and onion mixture. Season with salt and pepper, serve in pasta bowls and top with lots of grated parmesan. Sprouts, Three Ways There are many different ways of cooking and serving sprouts. Here are some of our favourites. Roast Sprouts Roast sprouts with salt, pepper and olive oil. It only takes 30 minutes, and the results will be delicious. Raw Sprouts Shred or grate leftover sprouts and serve them in a winter salad, like this one with kale and almonds. Steamed Sprouts A winter classic – steam or boil your sprouts and mix them with cooked bacon and chestnuts. www.menu-dorset.co.uk