FOOD + DRINK
white , and the Dolcetto d ’ Alba Chiara Boschis Barolo , a deep Italian red with flavours of warm spice and cherry .
This razor-sharp attention to detail is evident in every aspect of an evening at dilsk . The interior is a pared back intimate setting of 24 covers blending dark wood and very stylish cutlery , crockery and glassware . Touches of deep plum and dark pink seen in unobtrusive floral displays and flecks of gold on the walls shimmer subtly as evening falls , lighting dims and soft soulful house music sets a relaxed atmosphere ripe for conversation , laughter and , most importantly , exceptional food .
Stephens ’ devotion to flavour and the aim of a meal at dilsk being an experience is why the menu is a choice between two tasting menus , each with an optional wine flight : a short tasting menu of five courses and a longer tasting menu of nine courses . No prizes for guessing which one I chose , a decision made even easier upon the arrival of our ‘ snacks ’. Fittingly understated in their menu description , the chicken liver parfait macaroon with damson jam was rich , creamy and sweet , paving the way for a savoury choux bun filled with smoky , salty Ashdown cheese and nutty cep , and cubes of mellow smoked mackerel lifted by an almost tropical combination of perry and pear .
Next , two signatures that I ’ m assured won ’ t be going anywhere , but that I suggest you make haste to get your hands on just in case . Two perfect rounds of laminated brioche , still steaming with soft warmth on the inside , but crusty like a proper bread roll on the outside , were accompanied by a deep green , fragrant wild garlic butter , which , when spread generously on top melted into every layer . It was so tasty , I think I closed my eyes for a good few minutes before opening them to be greeted by a lightly poached oyster with trout roe , pickled radish , dill oil and a pastel-pink custard of dilsk ; singing with the sea , the oyster smacked of salty freshness , its natural flavour lifted by a combination of grassy , tangy , citrus notes .
An elegantly presented Orkney scallop followed , its sweetness cut through with an earthy dashi broth full of umami , peppery homegrown nasturtium leaves and a palatecleansing freshness in the form of pickled golden beetroot ribbons . Then , the monkfish – my dish of the evening , if not the year ( which I can say confidently knowing it ’ s only February ), South Coast monkfish with pattypan squash , cheek fritter and a prawnhead hollandaise so packed with flavour and so delicious that I think I ’ d sail the seven seas to get my hands on a vat of it . The secret to this incredible dish is that the monkfish is cooked gently in Wagyu fat before being finished off on a BBQ , garnished with sweet pattypan squash shavings , and dressed in a piquant pumpkin-seed miso vinaigrette . Add to this a succulent and crispy tempura monkfish cheek served on the side and the result is gustatory paradise .
I ’ m not going to reveal too much about the Fox Acres chicken other than the fact that I didn ’ t know it was humanly possible to make a mushroom gravy so good that it transports you straight to the forest from which they were foraged . And you ’ ll need to taste the new season lamb yourself to experience meat that melts while simultaneously commanding your entire mouth with indulgent flavours of apricot and truffle . I will tell you , however , that the apple and
celeriac tatin - fine ribbons of apple and celeriac poached in a caramel syrup sitting on top of a caramel disk , hazelnut frangipane and puff pastry , all doused in deep caramel sauce – tastes all at once like a sharp , sticky and sweet apple pie / sticky toffee pudding hybrid , and yet is elevated by zesty sorrel and crunchy cobnuts .
I think you get the gist . I could heap praise on dilsk from dusk till dawn , but I don ’ t need to – regardless of the restaurant being listed in the Michelin Guide just four months after opening , the food , wine and service here really does speak for itself . An accessible addition to Brighton ’ s foodie scene with a five-course menu available at £ 60 ( excluding Saturday evenings ) and a full 10-course menu for £ 95 ( both for lunch and dinner service ), dilsk is simply outstanding – thoughtful , innovative and really relaxed , it ’ s a gift I ’ d urge anyone to experience themselves .
dilsk Drakes Hotel 44 Marine Parade Kemptown Brighton BN2 1PE www . dilsk . co . uk
01273 696934 info @ dilsk . co . uk
dilsk . brighton Dilsk www . insidekent . co . uk • 89