FOOD + DRINK
IMAGINATIVE , FRIENDLY AND FAULTLESS ,
dilsk DEFINES MODERN BRITISH DINING BY POLLY HUMPHRIS
Selecting one of many words one could choose to describe dilsk , I ’ d go for ‘ natural ’. First , the name . ‘ dilsk ’, an incredibly interesting word simply to pronounce , and yet as you ’ ll discover , the least interesting thing about this remarkable restaurant , is a regional variety of red alga , or seaweed , found on the south coast . It ’ s also known as ‘ dulse ’, which the restaurant was originally going to be called before co-founders Tom Stephens and Madeleine Riches discovered the name had already been taken by a seafood restaurant in the heart of Edinburgh .
Personally , I think this was a gift – almost onomatopoeic , dilsk is an intriguing but calming name – not quite an oxymoron , but certainly indicating the yin / yang nature of the dining experience here . The sense of balance that the restaurant ’ s name evokes is very much in keeping with both the ethos and the attitude of everything dilsk does – laid back and unpretentious , but deeply serious about what it is they want to ( and do ) deliver , a meal here is experiential , and this is just one factor in a list of many that sets them apart .
Occupying the lower level of Brighton ’ s highly acclaimed Drakes Hotel on Kemp Town ’ s Marine Parade , and again , a nod to the notion of balance , the space that dilsk fills was available when Stephens and Riches , who had previously worked very successfully together at The Lanes ’ 64 Degrees , decided to take a leap of faith and go it alone . They approached Drakes , who weren ’ t actively looking for another restaurant to fill the gap left by dilsk ’ s predecessor , Amarillo , but took one look - at both Stephens and Riches ’ idea and their pedigree - and were more than happy to oblige ; some might call that fate .
The idea in question was to open a sustainable , zero-waste restaurant that uses super seasonal produce of the highest quality sourced from local and ethical growers and producers to create food that takes diners on a journey of flavour . Which is exactly what Brighton ’ s dynamic dining duo have done .
Having trained under Michelin-starred Tom Kerridge , Steve Drake at Sorrel in Surrey , Marcus Eaves at Pied à Terre and opening Fera at Claridge ’ s as sous chef for Simon Rogan , Stephens ’ approach to cooking is not only detailed and sophisticated but shows a level of understanding and knowledge that many chefs would be lucky to possess at the end of their career . His powerful CV also very likely has something to do with his vision for dilsk , which has remained passionate and unwavering from the outset , and is bolstered hugely by the calm but extremely evident focus of Riches , who is outwardly modest but without question an equal driving force , not least when it comes to wine .
As any foodie knows , the wine flight and drinks pairing is as important as the menu as it elevates the food and goes hand in hand with the meal . Riches ’ intuitive comprehension of how wine works with food has informed an interesting and considered wine list that includes wine by the glass and bottle from producers ‘ of the moment ’ as well as lesserknown gems from small-scale winemakers . The core wine list mixes classics and betterknown wines , while the wine flight is a more carefully curated list with wines chosen to enhance each dish and to introduce diners to more unusual grapes , small producers and a more modern approach to wine . Since my visit , thanks to Riches ’ recommendations , I ’ ve ordered both the Domaine Des Sarrins Blanc De Rolle , a fresh , aromatic Provençal
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