GIBF E Magazine AUG-SEPT-2019 GIBF The Business Tycoons Magazine Aug-Sept | Page 19

NEW FASHIONS IN COSMETIC TECHNOLOGY
While attendees at in-cosmetics Global “photobombed” supplier selfie stations, immersed in textural experiences, traced next-gen solutions in
sustainability and internalized holistic approaches to skin and hair health, education sessions surrounded the show floor with a deeper dive into
several core areas. One in particular gave an overarching view of six new trends in cosmetic technology; moderating the session was Paolo
Camattari, formulation technology manager, of Oriflame.
1.CIRCULAR ECONOMY
The latest approach to sustainability that companies are embracing is recycling natural
by-products and waste from food and agriculture to create active ingredients for
cosmetics. Giorgio Dell'Acqua, Ph.D., a consultant and long-time proponent of this
practice, gave Cosmetics & Toiletries an example. “I recently collaborated on a project to
re-use the skin of blueberries from foods to protect against blue light,” he said.
2. ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE FOR INGREDIENT DISCOVERY
Technology is enabling the reinvention of traditional ingredients in numerous ways; from
refined processing methods to impart added benefits, to in silico modelling that takes
some guess work out of the discovery process. Neil Foster, of Nutrias, spoke on the latter.
3. MACROBIOTICS FOR COSMETICS
No discussion of the latest trends in cosmetic technology would be complete without
considering recent advances in microbiome research. Denis Wahler, of Givaudan Active
Beauty, provided this. With the advent of metagenome and biogenetic technologies, he
explained that researchers have been able to measure the importance of the skin
microbiome in hygiene and personal care. From this, cosmetic scientists have focused on
its crucial link to beauty and well-being. However, an important connection the industry
must make is in educating the consumer.
4. HYDROTALCITES FOR CONTROLLED DELIVERY
According to Michele Sisani of Prolabin & Tefarm S. r.l., synthetic layered double hydroxide
clays (LDHs) have attracted attention due to their easily tuned chemical composition,
biocompatibility and lack of toxicity. Structurally, these materials comprise positively
charged layers and charge-balancing exchangeable anions located in their interlayer
regions. They are currently used as carriers of drugs, amino acids and antibiotics, and
show good results in terms of controlled release, drug loading and the protection of labile
biomolecules.
5. WEARABLES FOR NON-INVASIVE SKIN RESEARCH
If you ask Emer Duffy, of Dublin City University, wearables hold potential beyond health
trackers and entertainment value; they have real clinical applications. According to Duffy,
there is increasing interest in the development of non-invasive tools for investigating the
properties of skin, as they promise non-destructive sampling, reduced ethical concerns
and comparability of results in vivo and in vitro.
COSMETICS
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