RAVENNA PIZZA
THE PORTOFINO RESTAURANT
CARBONARA
PUPATELLA NEAPOLITAN PIZZA
By 1956, the last three residents were displaced by the construction of the George Washington Parkway. However, despite Little Italy’ s long-ago demise, Italian flavor continues to be a part of Arlington’ s vibrant urban landscape. You can find it in its thriving Italian food scene.
Some notable places to sample:
RAVENNA PIZZA
Arlington’ s newest Italian-accented emporium, Ravenna Pizza, opened in February. Its specialty is authentic Roman-style pizza. If you’ ve never tried a Roman-style pie, you’ re in for a treat.
The contemporary casual eatery is located in the Rosslyn neighborhood, just across the Potomac from historic Georgetown. One key difference between Roman-style pizza and Neapolitan is that the dough undergoes a longer fermentation followed by a two-step baking process.
Upon entering Ravenna, you’ re greeted by an elbow-shaped marble counter laden with 13 varieties of pizza in rectangular pans. In Roman style, the slices are cut into roughly 4-by-6-inch squares. You can order by the square, the quarter tray, or the full tray. After making your selection, the pizza is returned to the oven for a final blast of heat that finishes the baking process. The result is a thin crust with a crunchy base and a light, pillowy center. Extra-virgin olive oil used in the dough makes it less filling. Available toppings include imported Italian meats, such as prosciutto smoked with rosemary and other herbs, a highdensity Italian tomato sauce, and locally sourced vegetables.
The pizza choices include dolce inferno( tomato sauce, mozzarella, pepperoni, burrata, and Grana Padano cheeses, finished with hot honey). Four styles of white pizza feature Crystal City truffle mushroom, with caramelized onion, truffle oil, and two Italian cheeses. Additionally, the menu offers four Roman-style focaccias. More ingredient combinations are in development, along with a gluten-free pizza.
Save room for Ravenna’ s creamy, smooth gelato, made in-house daily and flavored with fresh fruits, nuts, and chocolates. For a lighter option, the lemon sorbet has a kick that will make you pucker.
Ravenna features a bar offering Italian beers and wines, along with classic aperitifs like Aperol and Limoncello. A daily happy hour pairing pizza and spirits runs from 4 p. m. to 6 p. m.
Open 11 a. m.-10 p. m. Monday-Thursday and 11 a. m.-11 p. m. Friday-Sunday. 1500 Wilson Blvd., Arlington; 571-520-2086; ravennapizza. com
THE PORTOFINO RESTAURANT
On a late Saturday afternoon in Arlington’ s Crystal City, Sinatra croons“ Young at Heart” over the sound system, while owner Rich Micheli talks on the phone, taking last-minute reservations. The rhythmic pounding emanating from the kitchen comes from a veal leg being transformed into delicate scaloppine alla Marsala. It’ s just one of the classic Northern Italian recipes that this local institution has been serving to satisfied patrons since 1970.
It doesn’ t get more old-school Italian than this. Customers enter the transformed cottage through the rear. Inside, the original living area of the home is now an open dining room, with walls adorned with black and white photos of three generations of Michelis. Micheli’ s grandfather, Adelmo, opened the restaurant 55 years ago and later added another large dining room. Adelmo ran a small grocery store in Tuscany, which, following Italian tradition, also served food. After his son Sergio( Rich’ s dad) arrived in the Washington, D. C., area for his Italian military service, he encouraged his father to join him. Together, they opened several restaurants. Then, in 1993, a third generation joined the enterprise when Rich Micheli came on board. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, Micheli now co-owns the restaurant with his sister, Maria Puletti.
“ Usually, family-owned restaurants eventually move on,” says Micheli.“ But we’ ve made it a lifestyle.”
Like the eatery itself, the menu has largely remained unchanged throughout its long tenure. Staples include fettuccine alfredo, veal piccata, and family recipes such as bocconcino dello chef( veal stuffed with fresh mushrooms and a sherry-wine sauce), along with flavors from Italy’ s Tuscany and Liguria regions.
Menu specials, like venison medallions with cherry sauce( a nod to spring in Washington), change daily. Open for dinner only from Tuesday to Saturday, and for lunch on Wednesday. 526 South 23rd St. Arlington; 703-979-8200; theportofinorestaurant. com
CARBONARA
Expect a show at this lively, year-old eatery. Murals depicting Italian streetscapes adorn the walls. Glass chandeliers sparkle above. A floating wine rack separates the 150-seat restaurant. In the open kitchen, cooks create handmade pasta dishes such as rigatoni alla vodka, capellini pomodoro, and three-cheese baked ziti.
Truffles are shaved tableside, while waiters slice prosciutto using an old-fashioned slicer at the table. Customers ordering the bucatini carbonara enjoy a grand performance when servers arrive with an 80-pound wheel of Parmesan, flambé it, and toss the pasta with the melted cheese. This show has garnered millions of views on Instagram, according to chef / owner Mike Cordero.
Classic favorites like osso buco, clams oreganata, and chicken cutlet Parmigiana are popular. However, contemporary dishes such as caviar tater tots are also well-received.
Cordero boasts 45 years of experience in the restaurant business, starting as a teenager in a pizza restaurant in his native Bronx. By age 20, he owned his own pizza place just two blocks from Yankee Stadium. It grew into a 42-store empire, which he eventually sold to the Sbarro chain. He now manages a dozen restaurants in Northern Virginia. However, on many nights, you’ ll find him making the rounds in his chef whites at Carbonara.
The musical vibe evokes the vintage Rat Pack. On Friday and Saturday nights, a live singer channels Old Blue Eyes. Plans are underway to expand with the opening of a Sinatra Room featuring live music. An expansive patio accommodates another 50 diners.
Open 11:30 a. m. to 10 p. m. on weekdays and noon to 10 p. m. on weekends. Happy hour is from 2:30 p. m. to 6 p. m. on weekdays. 3865 Wilson Blvd., Arlington; 703-721-3905; carbonarava. com
PUPATELLA NEAPOLITAN PIZZA
“ Pizza Addicts Only” reads the sign on the glass-front door of this no-frills eatery tucked into a tiny strip mall in Arlington’ s Bluemont neighborhood.
FLYWASHINGTON. COM 42 SPRING 2025