THE ITALIAN STORE
Behind a counter just inside the door, pizza makers donning red fedoras assemble ingredients atop rounds of dough before sliding them into a massive, red-tiled wood-burning oven. The fedoras pay homage to the signature style of Enzo Algarme, the Naples-born founder of Pupatella.
Pupatella Pizzas
Credit: Pupatella
Pupatella originated from Algarme’ s quest for quality Neapolitan-style pizza in the D. C. area, starting as a food cart in 2007. It now operates 11 locations in the Washington metropolitan area, with a 12th set to open soon in Alexandria, Va.
Among its many accolades is one from the Washington Post, which ranked it fourth among the area’ s top 20 pizzerias. Additionally, 50 Best Pizza, a group that annually rates artisan pizzas worldwide, recognized it in its 2024 list of outstanding pizzerias. However, one of its most significant credentials is its membership in the Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana. This Naples-based nonprofit certifies that the products of its members are made to the exacting specifications of the organization.
“ Nobody goes to the lengths we do,” says Pupatella CEO Jim Biafore.“ Being certified is similar to the Michelin process. There are strict guidelines and audits.”
For instance, their unbleached, unbromated flour is imported from Italy, and the dough undergoes a longer fermentation process. Meats are also shipped from Italy, along with San Marzano tomatoes. Fresh buffalo mozzarella is made twice a week.
Open from 11:30 a. m. to 9 p. m. Sunday through Thursday, and from 11:30 p. m. to 10 p. m. on Friday and Saturday. 5104 Wilson Blvd., Arlington; 571-312-7230; pupatella. com
THE ITALIAN STORE
If you’ re considering a picnic in one of Washington’ s many iconic outdoor spaces, this is the place to gather your ingredients. The family-operated business has been offering hard-to-find Italian products for over 30 years in Arlington’ s Lyon Village neighborhood. In 2015, it opened a larger second store in the county’ s Westover area.
Order deli meats and cheeses by the pound or opt for a made-to-order sandwich. The Philadelphia-style subs are especially popular, particularly the Milano( featuring two Italian hams, provolone cheese, and Genoa salami) and the Capri( with prosciutto, Genoa salami, provolone cheese, and spiced capicola ham). They are served on a soft Italian roll with sweet and hot peppers, lettuce, oregano, onions, and a house-made dressing. Fresh, parbaked entrees are also available.
New York-style pizza is sold by the oversized slice or by the pie, both of which are larger than Neapolitan-style pizzas. The slightly chewy, medium-thick crust is baked at lower temperatures for a longer duration.
Another station in The Italian Store offers hand-scooped, locally made gelato, which is also available in the freezer section. Additionally, a large wine department stocks hard-to-find Italian varietals, as well as some Austrian and German labels.
The Westover location offers counter seating and an outdoor patio if you can’ t wait to reach a picnic spot. Meanwhile, Lyon Village features a small patio.
Open from 10 a. m. to 8 p. m. Monday through Saturday; from 11 a. m. to 6 p. m. on Sunday. Two locations: 5837 Washington Blvd., Arlington; 571-341-1080 and 3123 Lee Hwy., Arlington; 703-528-6266; Italianstore. com
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