February 2020 Issue Apparel February 2020 issue | Page 65

FEATURE In fact, the possession of fur clothing was not only a symbol of but a tangible driver of power. After all, without it, human labour and industry would not have been able to brave the harsh climates of North America, Europe, and Russia. However, by the mid-20th century, fur started being seen as more of a luxury product and not necessarily one that was crucial to human survival. And as the years trudged on, with the invention of new synthetic materials and innovations, fur was relegated to the status of an heirloom, antique, and accessory. It was only in the 1980s that the usage of fur in clothing began to garner opposition with the growing awareness regarding animal rights and environmental preservation. Backed by the support of celebrities and groups such as People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA), fur soon became a political topic. Since then, instances of fur-wearers being targeted with paint, ostracised socially, or simply shamed for owning and parading their fur clothes have become a common occurrence. But despite the persistent criticism, the global fur trade did not waver significantly until the 21st century. During these years, numerous environmental policies came into existence, most of which were driven by sustainable economic theories that sought to prevent over-exploitation of wildlife. THE LARGEST AND MOST EFFECTIVE CAMPAIGN AGAINST FUR HAS BEEN THROUGH SOCIAL MEDIA. This shift led to the rise of faux fur, which is a synthetic substitute of genuine fur. However, despite these changes, there was no notable shift in consumer demand. In fact, between 2005 and 2015, the production of fur increased by 65 per cent, according to the 2015 report of Fur Europe, an international website that imparts information on sustainable fur. The largest and most effective campaign against fur has been through social media. This approach has changed the mindsets of globalised and progressive designers, businesses, and consumers to turn away from fur. The shift became especially apparent in 2019, with major brands withdrawing from this space, and some communities even banning fur outright. FAUX CHANGE IN FUR? In 2015, the global fur industry generated US$40 billion in sales. However, the global fur market was estimated to be only US$33 billion in 2018, and is losing to the rise of its artificial counterpart. In that regard, the faux fur market is projected APPAREL I February 2020 I 57