February 2020 Issue Apparel February 2020 issue | Page 66

FEATURE
to grow at a compounded annual growth rate
(CAGR) of 19 per cent during 2019–2023. This is
a result of the overall shifts in attitudes towards fur
as apparel.
It was in 2019 that California, the fifth largest
economy in the world, passed a law banning the
manufacture, distribution, and sale of new fur
products. The law, which is expected to go into
effect in 2023, is a major driving force behind
the rollback of fur. Similar laws are under review
in many other parts of North America, with New
York readying its own fur ban in a few months.
However, perhaps an even more meaningful
change is coming from elite fashion brands
that are renouncing fur in the interest of
environmental sustainability and, in turn, pleasing
their consumers. One of the earliest big brands
to spearhead this shift included Gucci, which,
in 2017, pledged to go fur-free. Others such
as Versace, Burberry, Coach, and Chanel also
followed suit. And this is not a change to be
taken lightly.
For example, famed brand House of Fraser
announced that it was discontinuing fur back in
2017. However, it was later discovered that the
company had quietly discontinued the policy. The
public backlash against this deception was swift
and harsh, forcing the company to apologise and
reinforce its commitment.
The movement has proven to be so compelling
that even traditionalists who have long opposed
this shift have finally given in. Notorious among
them has been Karl Lagerfeld, who had defended
the practice for years. But soon after he passed
away, the company was quick to jump on the
bandwagon and ban fur across its operations.
These large brands have also been joined by a
slew of other big names. Some of the most vocal
voices in the global industry have been Stella
McCartney, Jean Paul Gaultier, Michael Kors, and
Alessandro Michele, among many others.
While all these changes clearly are good news
for conservationists, what may be the unintended
consequences?
THE DILEMMA
As we’ve seen, genuine fur apparel is rapidly
being replaced (and displaced) by the proliferation
of faux fur. So while animal-based materials
are likely to witness a decline, the products in
themselves are not. This means that raw material
for items such as coats, jackets, shoes, etc. is
going to be sourced from alternative sources.
This is great news for animal welfare and ethical
sourcing but does this necessarily mean that it will
have a positive net impact?
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I APPAREL I
February 2020