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The admonitions of adventure riders in Watson Lake proved justified during the journey to Tok , Alaska . Speed wasn ' t an issue but road conditions were dicey everywhere . One of our guys plunged into a depression that detached the top case and flung it into a ditch , rotated his bike ' s mirrors below the handlebars and left the GPS facing backward . However , Fast Freddy ' s in Tok made it all better with a well-stocked bar and tasty fish dinners . The Cleft in the Rock
Above : The author with a totem in Kitwancool , British Columbia . Motorcycles were forbidden near the totems and this was enforced by watchful natives . Bottom : Haines , Alaska , embarkation point for our cruise down the Alaska Inland Marine Highway ... after a meditative respite at the Bamboo Room Bar & Restaurant .