Right : Women handmake pastillas , a traditional pie of tender chicken wrapped in layers of pastry .
The Desert Experience
Created by Jim Carroll , 6-time traveler from Chapel Hill , NC
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on religious instruction but also medicine , linguistics , grammar , music , logic , and more .
Al-Fihri ’ s vision for a social space of intellectual exchange came to life as students and scholars flocked to the university . Sultans endowed the school with thousands of valuable texts and manuscripts from the Middle Ages . As other Arab nations sadly lost their libraries in centuries of war , the Al-Qarawiyyin library was able to maintain its rare texts . It now contains some of the oldest preserved manuscripts in Islamic and Arab history .
Fez el Bali is home to many other magnificent madrasas . These serene centers for students studying Islam are a welcoming relief from the frenetic energy of the medina . They are also architectural gems boasting beautiful Islamic details such as filigreed plaster , painted wood inlaid with gold leaf , and hand-cut mosaic tilework known as zellige . Several madrasas which are no longer in use are open to the public , providing fascinating insight into the lives of the former residents . One is the 14th-century Bou Inania Madrasa which has a grand marble courtyard and tilework in varying shades of green . Its adjoining mosque and green minaret is visible from all across the medina .
TRADES & TREASURES
Today , what leads many into the medina is the promise of its authentic traditions and exquisite crafts . Artisans employ skills that have been handed down for generations . Whether you ’ re looking for a cherished souvenir or a gift to take home to friends and family , you ’ ll find them here . Everything from silk caftans to chandeliers and musical instruments are all produced by hand — just be prepared to barter .
Morocco ’ s rich carpet-making custom is one such craft that has endured the test of time . Since the medina ’ s golden age , beautiful carpets and rugs — known locally as zerbiya — were created . Today , the tradition lives on with hand-embroidered carpets in an array of colorful patterns and textures . Similarly , pottery production has been a major industry in Fez for hundreds of years — and the city continues to create about 80 % of Morocco ’ s pottery . Rich clay from the surrounding area is hand-spun into spice and tagine pots , bowls , vases , and more .
Fez el Bali is also home to some of the oldest and largest leather tanneries in the world . They produce beautiful leather creations — from traditional Moroccan leather slippers
16 DISPATCHES • AUGUST 2022