to stylish bags , coats , ottomans , and other leather furnishings . The oldest is Chouara Tannery . From rooftop terraces , you can see its iconic scene of a mosaic of round stone vessels filled with colorful dyes and liquids . Workers mill about , soaking and stirring animal hides in the vats . While the sight is something to behold , the smell is one that is unfortunately not easily forgotten : a pungent odor of urine and animal flesh . Employees may offer sprigs of mint to hold under your nose to combat the uneasy stench .
Since the medina ’ s earliest days , the tannery has operated in the same fashion . Here , hides from cows , sheep , goats , and camels are transformed into buttery soft leathers in vibrant colors , many of which are exported around the world . They are soaked and softened for two to three days in a mixture of cow urine , pigeon feces , quicklime , and salt , and before being transferred into a tub of dying solutions . The dye in these pits typically come from natural ingredients : the blue coloring is created from indigo plants , red from poppies and paprika , and yellow from saffron and turmeric .
If you ’ re looking for a change in scent and scenery , Souk al-Attarine , the spice and perfume market , is a bouquet of delicious
aromas like jasmine and rosewater . The streets of this souk contains stall after stall of baskets piled high with colorful spices . Essential oils , dried fruits , bundles of freshly cut herbs , and spiced Berber coffee are also for sale . Or visit the Place R ’ Clif market for fresh fruits , vegetables , meats , sweets , and traditional snacks .
No matter which path you take , ancient history comes to life within the walls of this wonderfully chaotic maze . Simply follow your senses to unlock discoveries a thousand years in age , and meet the people who have kept this history alive .
Left : Stalls sell piles of every spice imaginable — from cumin to paprika , cardamom , and saffron .
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Left : Artisans hand embroider intricate designs into the locally produced leathers .
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DISPATCHES • AUGUST 2022 17