Dispatches August 2022 | Page 15

THE ATHENS OF AFRICA
many superlatives , Fez el Bali is considered the largest car-free urban area in the world . With no motorized vehicles permitted , the only way to haul goods is by cart or mule . You ’ ll hear the muffled sound of the pack-laden animal ’ s hoofs on the cobblestone streets and the warning call of a mule driver ’ s approach .
Unlike other old towns around the world where locals have been pushed out by growing tourism , Fez el Bali ’ s residents have lived here for generation upon generation . It ’ s these locals that make it feel so raw and real . The medina is where they live , work , and play . Many have spent their entire lives within the confines of the five miles of fortified walls .
THE ATHENS OF AFRICA
Since its inception more than a millennium ago , Fez el Bali has cemented itself as the cultural , spiritual , and intellectual center of Morocco . Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1981 , it maintains its status as a living museum to the country ’ s history and heritage .
In the early Middle Ages — while Europe was in an intellectual lull following the fall of the Western Roman Empire — Fez el Bali was a place of booming innovation , education , and culture . After its founding by the Idrisid dynasty in 789 , Fez el Bali attracted scholars , astronomers , mathematicians , and more , while merchants sold exotic wares and ornate textiles from all over the Arab world . Its exchange of goods and ideas during the Middle Ages has earned it the nickname of “ the Athens of Africa .”
At the center of all of it was Al-Qarawiyyin University ( also known as Al-Karaouine ) which holds the record as the world ’ s oldest continually operating educational institution . And perhaps even more impressive , the institution was also the first university to be founded by a woman .
In 859 AD , Tunisian-born Fatima al-Fihri used her inheritance from her merchant father ’ s wealth to found the madrasa ( Koranic schools for Islamic education ). It quickly grew to become the leading spiritual and educational center in the Arab world , with courses not only
The Bab Bou Jeloud is a grand entrance featuring the traditional Moorish architectural forms with a horseshoe arch .
Left : At the medina ’ s tanneries , workers use an ancient system of treating leather , including hanging the colorful hides to dry in the sun ..
“ Unlike other old towns around the world where locals have been pushed out by growing tourism , Fez el Bali ’ s residents have lived here for generation upon generation . “
DISPATCHES • AUGUST 2022 15