bake our bread every night . We don ’ t sell day-old bread and our bread doesn ’ t have preservatives ,” Canevari says . “ It takes time to make it . You just can ’ t throw flour , salt , water and yeast in there and have it ready in an hour .”
Genova Bakery is like a slice of Italy , hearkening back to 1918 , when Angelo Rolleri , originally from Genoa , Italy , opened the business with two partners . The bakery is still housed in its original location , designated a historic landmark by the City of Stockton in 1985 . Salami , mortadella , roast beef and sausage fill the deli cases from Molinari Delicatessen in San Francisco , alongside the provolone , Swiss and buffalo cheddar cheeses .
Club Pheasant in West Sacramento knows about consistency , as well . The 86-year-old family-owned restaurant still makes many of the same Italian and American dishes since it opened in 1935 . Founder Luisa Palamidessi created the spaghetti sauce and handmade the ravioli . Although she passed away in 2000 , Club Pheasant still makes about 7,000-8,000 ravioli each week . Its garlic steak sandwich runs a close second in popularity .
“ I order probably 300-400 pounds ( of steak ) a week ,” says owner Peter Palamidessi , Luisa ’ s grandson . He adds that their fried ravioli is almost as popular as the regular ravioli with sauce .
Club Pheasant ’ s building was built in 1912 on what was originally an agronomy lab used by UC Davis to test soil and farming practices . Luisa and her husband , George Palamidessi , bought the building and surrounding 10 acres of land in 1935 where George farmed alfalfa , tomatoes , corn and sugar beets . Luisa and her daughters started cooking for farmers who stopped at their modest gas station and soon turned the building into a restaurant . Most of today ’ s dining room , bar and kitchen are part of the original building . An additional room , dubbed the Luisa room , which includes a portrait of its founder and namesake , was added in 1977 .
El Novillero has also seen changes since its early days . It was an abandoned
Brothers Albert , Bobby and Joe Davalos run El Novillero , which opened in 1970 as a humble 28-seat restaurant . Its dining room now accommodates 180 .
“( What ) people care about the most is that they want to go somewhere where they know they ’ re going to get the same food every time ; have consistent food come out of the kitchen .”
Albert Davalos , chef , El Novillero Restaurant
and boarded up burger joint when Albert ’ s father José first set eyes on it in 1970 . He owned several businesses in the area including the El Matador Club next door , but it had little parking so he bought the run-down building and parking lot and turned it into a 28-seat Mexican drive-up restaurant serving authentic food from a counter on tin trays . His oldest son , Joe Davalos , was about to graduate high school and had no plans . So his father said , “ I know what you ’ re going to do . I ’ m going to put you in business .” He put Joe in charge , with two of José ’ s five children doing everything from washing dishes to cooking and waiting tables . The restaurant ’ s name , El Novillero , translates to “ The Apprentice Bullfighter ,” a reference to José ’ s intent for his son Joe to carry on the family legacy .
From one generation to the next
Today , stepping into El Novillero , a customer is immediately met with images of the Davalos family history . The three brothers who run the restaurant — Joe , Bobby and Albert Davalos — are grinning in their cowboy hats and jeans from a framed childhood photo . A large portrait of the family ’ s patriarch and matriarch
October 2021 | comstocksmag . com 37