TASTE
Generation to Generation
Three Capital Region restaurants keep it in the family — in the kitchen
BY Judy Farah PHOTOS BY Debbie Cunningham
Albert Davalos is training one of his nephews how to cook the family recipes at El Novillero Restaurant , a fixture on Franklin Boulevard in Sacramento for 51 years . The food won ’ t go out unless it tastes the same as the dishes served since day one . “ He ’ s always in the kitchen learning . My nephew has made every dish so far and no one ’ s noticed that something ’ s different ,” says Davalos , who has been a cook at the restaurant since it opened in 1970 .
In the kitchen , a big pot of fresh tomatoes that will be used for sauces is stewing on the stove . On another burner , Davalos stirs a vat of pork being rendered into lard . He ’ s a big fan of lard , a key ingredient to the flavor of their food that has had customers coming back for decades . “ My mother was a fabulous cook ,” Davalos says . “ The recipes are not written down and they ’ re not measured . Everything is in the palm of our hands . We use the palm as a measure and certain cups .”
Restaurants often generate loyal customers , those that cherish the comfort and consistency that comes with recipes and techniques passed from one generation to the next . This dedication to the past allows some family restaurants in the Capital Region to survive through the decades .
Sacramento ’ s El Novillero is known in part for its big portions . Its Super Burrito is one of many large-sized items on the menu .
Humble beginnings
Tim Canevari , owner of Stockton ’ s 103- year-old Genova Bakery , also understands the importance of care in preparation that allows a business to flourish long term . “ We
36 comstocksmag . com | October 2021