TASTE
Tim Canevari of Genova Bakery in Stockton helps a customer select a loaf of bread . Recipes at the bakery have been passed down from generation to generation for over a century .
PHOTO COURTESY OF GENOVA BAKERY
— José and Esperanza Davalos — hangs in a dining room that seats 180 people .
“( What ) people care about the most is that they want to go somewhere where they know they ’ re going to get the same food every time ; have consistent food come out of the kitchen ,” Albert Davalos says .
Genova Bakery prides itself on its bread , providing the best of both oldworld tradition and updated methods . Compared to the bakery ’ s original output , growth and technology have allowed Genova to employ 15 bakers who pack the shelves and display cases with 200-800 loaves a day of crusty French bread , bundles of ciabatta , sourdough , Dutch crunch , and wheat and milk rolls . Still , it follows recipes that have been passed down over time , with an emphasis on its original high standards .
“ We ’ re not going for the cheapest price ,” says Canevari , who purchased Genova from the Rolleri family in 2004 after coming on board as a baker in 1992 . “ It ’ s got to be reasonable on price , but it ’ s got to be quality . We ’ re going for quality .”
Continuity is also key at Club Pheasant , thanks to a cook who has been working there for 52 years . Serena Jorge is 82 but still is in the kitchen every day , cooking up the ravioli and sauce that has kept customers coming back for four generations . “ She can cook circles around anyone here ,” says Palamidessi . “ She ’ s phenomenal .”
All of Canevari ’ s family members have worked at Genova , from his daughter Morgan Canevari , and wife , Patty Canevari , working the cash register , to sons Mark and Mathew Canevari helping out . Canevari ’ s dad David Canevari is the store ’ s repairman , fixing squeaky hinges on the century-old building and mending the screens on the store ’ s double doors .
What keeps the Canevaris going with Genova ? “ What I like about it and maybe it ’ s the Italian in me : I like feeding people . I ’ m happy people enjoy our products ,” Tim Canevari says .
Club Pheasant is now on its fourth generation : Peter Palamidessi ’ s daughter Jennifer Palamidessi is helping run the restaurant . ( Her daughter , Ava , a high schooler , sometimes helps bus tables .) But Peter , 68 , has no plans to retire soon as he helps his daughter prepare for the restaurant ’ s future . He ’ s grateful for all the family members who came before him , especially grandma Luisa , who gave Club Pheasant a lasting presence in the community . “ She gave us a legacy to live up to . We continue to learn from the other generations ,” he says .
As for El Novillero ? The Davalos brothers are in their 60s now but have no intention of retiring , though Joe ’ s son , dubbed “ Joe the Third ,” will eventually take over the management reins . Just about all members of the Davalos family have worked at El Novillero , including the children of the three brothers .
The elder Joe Davalos , the owner , is at the restaurant every day and according to his son , hasn ’ t taken a vacation in years . “ We ’ re ( all ) going to continue until we can no longer work ,” says Albert . “ There ’ s no retirement in the restaurant business .”
Judy Farah is managing editor of Comstock ’ s . She was the senior editor at KFBK radio for 20 years . Online at www . judyfarah . com and on Twitter @ newsbabe1530 .
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38 comstocksmag . com | October 2021