YVEL MAGAZINE VOLUME 2 Apr. 2014 | Page 28

26 The pearl is the only gemstone which is grown inside of a living organism. How are pearls formed & what are the different kinds of pearls? Pearls of Wisdom FRESHWATER PEARLS VS. SOUTH SEA PEARLS Freshwater pearls are harvested in mussels that live in lakes and rivers, while South Sea pearls are harvested in oysters that live in the Ocean. ~ Freshwater mussels can grow up to 40 pearls in one mussel. This is the standard, smaller round pearl you probably are used to identifying as a freshwater pearl. South Sea oysters only grow one pearl per oyster. ~ A Freshwater pearl harvest usually takes 6 months to 4 years to develop the pearls, where a South Sea pearl harvest will take 5 years to 25 years to develop one pearl! ~ Fresh water pearls come in unusual colors of lavender, peach, grey and white, while Salt Water pearls come in exotic shades of gold, silver, black, white, blue, green and brown. Pearls are formed within oysters or mollusks when a foreign substance (most often a parasite - not a grain of sand) invades the shell of the mollusk, entering the soft mantle tissue, and picking up epithelial cells. In response to the irritation, the epithelial cells form into a sac (known as a pearl sac) which secretes a crystalline substance called nacre, the same substance which makes up the interior of the oyster’s shell, which builds up in layers around the irritant, forming the pearl. Natural pearls have always been extremely rare and valuable. In a completely natural state, only a very small percentage of oysters will ever produce a pearl at all. As pearls have been a prized gem by much of the world’s population for thousands of years, this need has led to the development of cultured pearls. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, several Japanese researchers discovered a method of producing pearls artificially. The technique involves inserting a foreign substance, or nucleus, into the tissue of the oyster or mollusk, then returning the creature to the sea and allowing the resulting cultured pearl to develop naturally. What Are Fresh Water Coin Pearls? Lake Biwa was once world renowned for producing high-quality freshwater pearls produced by the Hyriopsis schlegeli (Biwa pearly) mussel. However, in the mid 1970’s pearl farming came to a halt due to pollution in this lake that was once synonymous with freshwater pearls. In 1998, Isaac & Orna were able to purchase the last 633 kilos of natural Biwa coin pearls from a Japanese company. There are other coin pearls in existence today which come from other areas - but Biwa pearls are special for a variety of reasons: ~ Biwa pearls have a higher luster than other coin or button pearls. ~ Biwa pearls come out flat because the mussel that they grow in is flatter than a normal mussel. ~ Biwa pearls only come in shades of white, cream, peaches and pink. ~ Biwa pearls develop in the shape of the nucleus. Most of the nucleus’ that were used were round, to develop round pearls. However, if you have a pearl that is in the shape of a heart or square, it is because the nucleus was in the shape of a heart or square. DETERMINING THE QUALITY OF A PEARL The quality of pearls are determined by the same factors as diamonds: Size The bigger the pearl - the longer it took to grow. Clarity The luster & the smoothness ShapeThe most desirable shape in the past has been round. However, most people today are looking for unique, natural shapes - as if they were looking for a “natural cut” diamond. Because of this, Baroques have become almost as valuable as rounds. Color This is determined more by the customers’ preference than anything else. The rarer the color - the more desirable.