WRITERS ABROAD MAGAZINE: THE THIRD SPACE
MAZARRON
BY Christine Nedahl
Mazarron is a port town situated on the Costa Calida in the province of Murcia. For those who live on the doorstep, within driving distance, or who need to take a flight, it is a place to be included in any itinerary. Within its confines, it provides unique and diverse experiences. The ocean, and the mineral wealth, both enjoyed throughout history, give it its particular essence. The coastline offers wild strands, family beaches, and expanses for the naturalists. Puerto de Mazarron is a hive of activity in the summer months, and an idyllic retreat off season. The waters provide the local restaurants with ingredients for delicacies characteristic of the area. Monkfish, pilchards, hake and grouper are cooked in a way perfected over generations. Invariably, the dishes are enhanced by adding tomatoes grown in the area, the flavour of which is renowned.
The mining of alum and lead was prevalent as early as the fifteenth century, lulling and reviving, until the beginning of the twentieth century. Areas of gold sands, arenas auriferas, were discovered and a mini gold rush ensued. In the mid-nineteenth century, it was quickly realised that gold was not going to create a fortune for the area and lead once again rose to prominence. Amazing archaeological sites pay homage to the greatness of this metallic mineral, and the debt modern day Mazarron owes it. Off the coast from the Playa de la Isla lie two Phoenician boats. They are the oldest found in the Mediterranean. The Mazarron 1 has little left, but the Mazarron 2, still carrying its load of lead ingots, is virtually complete and preserved in situ.
Just two kilometres along the coast from the port is Bolnuevo, an area of outstanding beauty. During the 16th century, attacks from pirates were commonplace and a sanctuary was built in memory of the local inhabitants who came under constant attack. Bolnuevo Castle, known as the Tower of Horses, was constructed to defend the area. Later, the inlet became a sheltered, peaceful
26 | NOVEMBER 2017