Where January February 2018 WhereJan-Feb18_Digital | Page 9

No holds barred iN sT.
s boNiFaCe
When a new restaurant opens at a popular corner that has perplexed
many business starts before it, eyebrows raise. When that restaurant
is opened by a team of chefs and enthusiasts who want to introduce
the community to a business concept not yet trending in Peg
city, tongues wag. This is the case with restaurant butcher shop
Bouchée Boucher.
A bright window lined room is fashionably festooned in
contemporary upholstery, shades of blond wood and a few red
chairs to spice things up. Two entrances, one to the dining
room, the other through the retail space, both set the scene.
It is lively and loud, and the greeting is warm. Entering
through the store teases what’s to come. Shelves are stocked
with Manitoba brands, specialty food, gifts and souvenirs
reflecting the practice of buying local. The way to
the restaurant passes in front of the temptation
case – beautifully laid out cuts of meat that
will arrive at tables seared, roasted and braised
throughout the evening.
While at first blush diners may expect a menu dominated by meat, it
is quality, not quantity, that is revered here. Many dishes are presented
as small plates, encouraging sharing tastes. Larger plates are presented
too, with the suggestion to share among more.
Vegetables, the food group of the moment, appear at the top of
the dinner menu and coax some palate pushing. Pairings of herbs
and spices eschew the expected: like maple, mint and pickled chiles
(fennel); dates, orange, and sumac (fennel); and raisin puree and
farro (carrots). The ubiquitous beet salad is traded for a gorgeous beet
fritter dressed with whipped goat cheese, caramelized honey, and an
innovative crispy quinoa crumble. Even mashed potatoes skew a bit
glam, infused with ricotta, lemon honey and basil.
Of course, proteins are celebrated too. With a team of butchery
specialists in the next room, the meat dishes are stellar. Braised beef
is tender, satisfying and lusciously bathed in a red wine jus. Spaetzle,
mushrooms, and celery root puree offer a classic flavour combination
with a lighter twist. The pork loin chop is another exquisitely
prepared winner. Roasted cabbage, warm apples, walnuts and calvados
beautifully add texture and deliver a balanced plate with hints of sweet,
salty and sour.
Lest we think all the good stuff is on dinner menus, lunch and
Sunday brunch here offers a no holds barred approach too. An ever
changing menu guarantees a few new delights every visit. Waffles
topped with caramel sauce and cinnamon honey gelato, French toast
with tomato jam, and pork belly can be wolfed down to the tunes of
different local musicians – making Sunday a fun day. 101-300 Tache
Ave, 204-237-1530, Map 1: R-6
Bouchée Boucher
carne
a CUT above
The trend reports declaring vegetables the most fashionable food group
of the year don’t completely factor in the prairies’ in nate love for meat.
Thankfully, the restaurant group behind Carne has. Wow! Hospitality’s
529 Wellington has been setting a gold standard in its stately riverside
mansion since 2001. This newest addition is assuming a firm position
competing with successful steak chains downtown.
Modern chophouses specialize in steaks and chops, and offer an array
of cuts of meat: veal, pork, poultry, and lamb as well as fish and seafood.
Carne Italian Chophouse is just this style of new wave meatery, where
a porterhouse can be enjoyed with a side of gnocchi. With Executive
Chef Michael Dacquisto drawing on his own heritage and recipes, meat
preparations get the Italian treatment, making veal Marsala and osso
bucco tempting choices.
The luxury ingredients and high standards of excellence of a pre-
mium steakhouse are on full display. À la carte eating lets diners choose
a grade of meat (ranging from premium to super premium), veggies,
and sauces. This mix and match eating counters the new generation of
establishments that discourage substitutions in favour of a “chef knows
best” sort of acumen.
In step with fashion, the menu leads to a sprawling collection of small
and large plates, including an all hits pasta list to share or as legitimate
entrées. Old and new school veggies (yes, there is kale) are extraordi-
nary. Fried Brussels sprouts are anointed with salty pancetta and sweet
balsamic syrup.
Tuna tartare, beef carpaccio, and fresh oysters are raw luxuries, fresh
and superb. Fried briny capers, shallots and a peppery bite of arugula
dress delicate slices of beef, while tuna tartare delivers a hit of chili, sesame
and nori, offering some Asian flair. Oysters are pure and perfect.
Hot starters are equally divine. Tender chicken livers, a steakhouse favour-
ite, are brightened with delicately flavoured tomato and balsamic red wine
gravy. Diver scallops, paired with spiralled and puréed butternut squash
could be an entrée. There are four, generous sized. A delicate mix of micro
greens and walnuts added give this dish impressive dimensions.
Ultimately though, a steakhouse must be judged on its meat, namely the
beef. Carne is proactive. Chef Dacquisto sources Alberta AAA Prime and
Wagyu hybrid beef from Alberta, USA and Japan. Tableside questions are
answered with enthusiasm, revealing a depth of detail. Each box of Wagyu
comes with a certificate of authentication revealing the animal’s name, its
ancestry and stats, giving a new level of understanding to where your food
comes from.
Canadian Wagyu tenderloin has the appearance of most, but don’t be
fooled. The ultra-fine marbling achieved from its special upbringing packs
each bite with juiciness so remarkable it nearly defies description. A rib steak
for two, beautifully charred and tender fills an entire plate, and could feed
more. The pork and veal chops follow suit, yielding flavourful tender bites.
Even after one of those big steaks, desserts are still a must. Creamy rice
pudding may be an old school comfort, but it wasn’t topped with pistachios,
coconut and begonia petals in our house.
Dining on succulent steaks in luxurious rooms doesn’t need a trend
report to gain favour - neither does having vast amount of choice.
Just remember to order simply, and let the meat shine. 295 York Ave,
204-896-7275 , Map 1: P-4
january/february 2018
where.ca
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