Where January February 2018 WhereJan-Feb18_Digital | Page 10

SPANISH BITES WITH FRENCH FLAVOUR
The romantic streets of Winnipeg’s historic Exchange District are where
the cool kids go, and it has been that way for decades. As a result, restau-
rant upstarts in this ‘hood have somewhat of a leg up out of the starting
gate, anticipated as the next hot spot everyone will be talking about.
Cordova Tapas and Wine Bar is packing in the city’s beautiful people,
who arrive seeking a whiff of culture and a sip of European flavour. Gaël
Winandy and Gregoire Stevenard, the two new owners from France and
Belgium, have endearing personalities and a knack for working the room,
inviting conversation with tapas and wine.
The location is prime, tucked into a long, narrow space in heritage
digs - the newest spot to bring Spanish-style tapas to the ‘Peg revels
in old world hospitality. Happy smiles, the kind given to friends, and
engaging tableside banter invite conversation from the outset. Warm col-
ours and greenery, soft lighting, easy listening Spanish music, and stylish
Mediterranean tilework set a moody backdrop for companions to catch
up. Space fills up quickly each night at high top tables, followed by diners
sitting intimately shoulder to shoulder along the bar. The room is abuzz.
While a few short years ago, tapas style eating was a hard sell in this
city–prairie folks like big plates of food–the small plates trend has snow-
balled. Many restaurants have added more appetizers to their menus,
rebranded “tapas” to score cache off of Spain’s pub scene. Shareable eats
have won the hearts of diners eager to try something new while keeping
options open for another plate.
cordova
Gaël and Gregoire may simply have spotted a business opportunity in
a new land and capitalized on it. Indeed, Spain is a mere skip from France
and Belgium and pubs are a pretty inviting research project.
Here, signature dishes from Spain and France are sautéed swiftly over
a couple burners behind the bar, filling the room with heady aromas.
Garlic, sweet paprika and frying mushrooms entice. Many little plates
stage a seduction and delight the senses. French baguette accompanies
salmon mousse. Sourdough bread is slathered in goat cheese, mushrooms
and fresh herbs. Chicken liver pate is luscious and smooth – accompanied
with picante medley of pickles, and more bread. A Chorizo and potato
pan fry mix is spiced with smoky, sweet chili; piment d’espelettes from
French Basque countryside.
Desserts come little too. A trio of sweets on a stone platter take a
turn at making a big impression. Being cool doesn’t happen simply by
following suit. Timing plays into this story, as does a hip address. The
essential ingredients in this formula