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CANDACE NELSON
The Pepperoni Roll
A West Virginia Tasty Tradition
A beautiful golden-brown bun stuffed with spicy pepperoni is the perfect West Virginia snack . Maybe add in some melted cheese or sweet peppers , too . The pepperoni roll , the unofficial state food of West Virginia , is a shelf-stable , meat-stuffed roll that can be found in pockets all across the state . But its roots — much like those of the state itself — are traced back to the coal mining industry less than 100 years ago .
A Delicious History
In the early 1900s , Italians immigrated to North Central West Virginia to work in the coal mines . With them , they brought their culture , customs and , of course , food . Italian restaurants , bakeries and grocery stores popped up across the Fairmont and the greater Marion County area . Fine meats , cheeses and breads became commonplace , and that was reflected at mealtime .
During the work day , miners ’ lunch buckets consisted of a large section for water , then a compartment on top of that would contain space for a meal . Often , that was a hunk of bread , a stick of salami and a sweet treat that would tide the men over until dinner time .
Bakeries From the Beginning
Enter Giuseppe “ Joseph ” Argiro .
Argiro was a former coal miner who , in 1927 , went on to open what is now known as the iconic Country Club Bakery in Fairmont . Drawing on his experience underground , Argiro came up with the idea to use the extra bread dough from his bakery in combination with a cured meat — in this case , pepperoni — to create a new product : the pepperoni roll .
The bakers hand cut giant blocks of pepperoni into sticks and rolled five to six sticks into fresh dough and let them bake to create a handheld , portable snack that was not only enticing to miners but the entire community .
The pepperoni roll transformed the miners ’ lunches from multiple meal components to a one-handed eating experience that allowed them to chow down quickly while drinking water and get back to work .
You Say Roll , This Spot Says Bun
While Argiro is commonly credited with commercializing the pepperoni roll , many locals say it was Colasessano ’ s World Famous Pizza & Pepperoni Buns that perfected it .
The fellow Marion County institution opened in 1950 and took the pepperoni roll from a snack to a full-on meal by splitting it down the center and topping it with cheese , sauce , local Oliverio ’ s peppers — or all of the above .
Though Colasessano ’ s calls their pepperoni rolls “ buns ,” the heart of the food remains the same . It is a filling , tasty meal that pulls on the cultural heritage of the region .
White Hall : 304-363-0571 141 Middletown Circle
Bellview : 304-363-8713 502 Pennsylvania Avenue
Fairmont , WV | colasessanospizza . com
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WEST VIRGINIA EXECUTIVE