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58km in, we hit slush ice. The sensible but slightly disappointing decision was to turn back. It simply wasn’ t worth the risk. Even turning the bike around on the slush was bloody slippery.
We’ d hoped to push deeper into the Sierra de la Demanda, so it was a shame, but what we had seen guaranteed it a place on our“ return in better weather” list— maybe May or September.
Back in Ezcaray, the weather had improved, so we tried a greenmarked up-and-back valley road. It was stunning— a narrow road clinging to a gorge with dramatic drop-offs. We made it almost to the top before, once again, icy slush forced a turnaround.
Supplies restocked( wine, eggs, biscuits, KitKat— the essentials), we plotted our next move. Sunday looked best, with Monday washed out everywhere.
Leaving Ezcaray at 9.30am, after remembering to drop the keys( always a fear!), we climbed out of town in fresh snow. The switchbacks were glorious under blue skies, and thank god for heated tops. A brilliant morning.
We rejoined earlier roads, then headed towards Embalse del Ebro for lunch at El Carloto— wildly popular and packed. We demolished a massive meat platter, taking plenty of leftovers.
Back on the road, the scenery
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