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into La Rioja, dotted with vineyards. Being March, the vines were pruned and dormant— no spring growth yet— but still beautiful. With over 600 vineyards in the region, maybe next time we’ ll plan a wine tasting.
The rain arrived as we rolled into Ezcaray, continuing as we unpacked the bikes at the apartment we’ d snagged last minute. The local shopkeeper laughed at me after three visits in half an hour— first forgetting bread and beer, then
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