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to our cosy room, she presented us with a complimentary beer each and pointed out the chill-out area— hammocks, seats and a countryside view. Bliss.
Beers open, maps and highlighters out, we checked the forecast. Duncan had scribbled a list of suggestions on a scrap of paper, so we plotted those too and decided we’ d head south to Ezcaray the next day, avoiding motorways and sticking to the green scenic routes.
Later, we chatted with the owner, Azis. He even offered us a free week’ s stay if I taught him English, with the bonus that my Spanish would improve too. Tempting— especially given the forecast— but with only a short time in Spain, we politely declined.
Sunny skies greeted us the next morning, and fresh snow could be seen on the distant mountains. We waved goodbye and headed off. The roads were gorgeous. At one point we spotted a lake and dam, so we stopped to take it in. A man walking his dog gave us the most enthusiastic wave, which made my day.
Just before Vitoria-Gasteiz, a police checkpoint appeared. They were pulling most vehicles over, and several officers were carrying hefty guns. They waved the car in front aside but smiled and waved us through. No idea what the stop was about, but I wasn’ t sad to miss out.
More deserted back roads led us
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