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of life , where an existence is merely scratched from the dry earth and ancient rocks . Reality is far from what it seems . The people of the Pamir want for nothing and yet provide so much , food for the traveller is plentiful , look down and amongst the rivers banks are often lush fields growing vegetables or providing grasses for the animals . Whole families work these pastures that provide for the community and a weary rider .
The further east , the more frontier the towns , and accommodation , become . Guesthouses , nothing more than a room full of beds and a dining hall that seat all , another chance to interact with the people and fellow travellers .
Leaving the Wakhan valley to start the ride north we eventually reached the Pamir Highway once again . The road to it the worst of the entire ride , vast plains of nothingness bound by magnificent mountains that seemed to be forever on the horizon . The deep gravel of the road driven into relentless corrugations that drain the stamina of even the fittest of riders . Thankfully , the Pamir marks the start of the sealed road … to an extent .
Approaching Murghab the desolation is overwhelming , here is a town that is as alien as a McDonald ’ s on the moon . Ramshackle buildings
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