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High passes and deep ravines add to the challenge of the two-day ride along this most ancient of routes . Tajik soldiers hike the route daily , always under the watchful eye of the opposing forces from pill boxed hidden amongst the arid landscape . It ’ s a unique experience to be so close to a country that is heavily demonised within western society and the truth is much of the worlds heroin is trafficked across the river bound border .
Thankfully , the thought of drug mules , angry militia , and treacherous landscapes are eroded by the breathtaking views through the valley and across the peaks . Amongst the breaks of sunshine , the temperatures are warm as late summer clings to the peaks , the shaded areas tease with a hint of the ambient warmth . At high altitude , the air rarely remains warm , and here , amongst peaks reaching six or more kilometres into the sky the temperatures do chill to the bone .
The RMT guys understand the local weather and often recommend a stop for a hot chai at a roadside stall . It ’ s again a welcome interaction with the enthusiastic locals and their friendly conversation to understand our world and ways .
Moving away from the border we reach the ‘ modern ’ road and head north toward Kyrgyzstan . Numerous passes approaching five thousand metres present
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