TRAVERSE Issue 44 - October 2024 | Page 19

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serious concerns that come with it . A gradual process takes place as we head higher into the mountains of the Pamirs , each day sees a higher altitude before the push into the highest reaches occurs .
The ride takes on the Istiqlol Tunnel , aptly named the “ Devil ’ s Arsehole ”, a three and half kilometre delve into the bowels of the mountains , little ventilation , even less light , and a constant stream of diesel belching trucks . With soot covered faces the grins of excitement display the enthusiasm for the views on the other side . This is the Pamir Highway .
Khorog presents another day off the bikes and a chance to explore this frontier town that harks a history closely related to the days of the Soviets . The bazaars , museums and cafes are all well worth the visit , and a chance to absorb the regional cultures .
The Panj River forms the natural border with Afghanistan and the views across it afford sightings of the local people , all wave enthusiastically across the border , the differences in appearance and ways seemingly none existent despite a great contrast in buildings and infrastructure , for this section of the Pamir Highway forms a main trading route acknowledge by the Chinese , who have invested
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