TRAVERSE 157
TRAVEL - INDIA
LEIGH WILKINS
THE LITTLE KNOWN GREAT ROAD
Many great roads spread across the Indian subcontinent like a spider ’ s web across an old barns rafters . A glimpse of a map can be an overwhelming experience , where to start and how to finish ? One such road is the NH9 , mostly a straight highway of sorts that spans the country , yet entering the small state of Uttarakhand , in the north , it becomes one of the worlds great rides , especially on two wheels .
We joined the ' nine ' at the large city of Rudrapur and followed it east toward the Nepali border . The long straights were punctuated with plentiful drink breaks brought on out of necessity as the temperature was nearing fifty degrees Celsius , it was an opportunity to witness the local culture and the experience of the many Hindu pilgrims walking who knows where .
Roadside dhabas , those ubiquitous small restaurants , serving simple yet delicious curries and breads , were in constant supply , there ’ s a need to keep the truck drivers nourished . All were welcoming , especially an Australian who had made the effort during the hottest time of the year . The same couldn ’ t be said for the numerous hotels and guesthouses , none wanted a foreigner , something to do with too much government paperwork . It sounded like a rouse to me , yet I was unable to place a finger on the exact reasoning .
A notable change was presented as we reached the international border . The road suddenly started to rise , mountains seemed to appear out of nowhere , the Himalayan foothills loomed like giants on the horizon . Apparently these are small mountains despite dwarfing anything we class as mountain in my home country .
Signs of snow were not apparent despite the temperature dropping to something much more comfortable , the low thirties were now common
TRAVERSE 157